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Supermarine Seafire F Mk 17


Jabo

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When will it be ready Nick?

"Two Weeks... Be Sure" :sheepsmile:

Seriously, looking forward to seeing this, I have quite a soft spot for the 17.

I'm guessing you've decided on a colour scheme mate?

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When will it be ready Nick?

"Two Weeks... Be Sure" :sheepsmile:

An Olegian two weeks? Definitely.

Seriously, looking forward to seeing this, I have quite a soft spot for the 17.

Great - no pressure then :unsure::)

I'm guessing you've decided on a colour scheme mate?

Yes! Well, no actually. I'm in something of a quandry. Of the three colour schemes presented, I like SX328 and SP343 (Kennets example has been discarded as CBA). Unfortunately my preference of the two is the same as all the others floating around on the forums - so I'm not really sure at present. Currently though, I'm doing the inside bits which are the same regardless so meh for now.

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~S~ Nick ,

Looking forward to seeing this. What scale was it again ?

Did you say you were going to use aerosol paint ?

I'm interested in seeing what kind of finish you get because I really want to get back into building (probably 32nd scale) aircraft myself. :D

Funny how the price of say a Tamiya 32nd scale Spit is just as expensive as an Airfix 24th scale Mossie :huh:

Good luck m8.

~S~ Painless.

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1:48 Mick.

Detail work I'm doing by brush but I'm going to attempt airbrushing the exterior.

When I've made a b****x of that I'll paint the lot by brush :rolleyes:

Oh, and after careful consideration, this is the paint scheme I'm going for.

Jabo

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Dry fit of wings to fuselage.

post-406-0-78628500-1313171956_thumb.jpg

It's not gone together too badly as it happens, there's a little sanding/filling to do on the fuselage and there'll be more once the wings are fitted but overall I'm happy with it so far.

Jabo

P.S. Sorry for the crappy photo, I only had the phone to hand.

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Looks good so far, Nick! C - wing?

BTW - I just saw a link online for a 1/32 Typhoon in resin from a company in the UK for £70 and £10 shipping - I'm thinking about it........

Ooooo, oooooo - I just posed it to the missus, and she ok-ed it! Go figure! Ordering now.......

Check it out here.....

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Looks good so far, Nick! C - wing?

BTW - I just saw a link online for a 1/32 Typhoon in resin from a company in the UK for £70 and £10 shipping - I'm thinking about it........

Ooooo, oooooo - I just posed it to the missus, and she ok-ed it! Go figure! Ordering now.......

Check it out here.....

That's a nice kit Pete. I've never seen 1/32 wings cast as one before - the Typhoon is chunky so those are impressive castings.

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Looks good so far, Nick! C - wing?

BTW - I just saw a link online for a 1/32 Typhoon in resin from a company in the UK for £70 and £10 shipping - I'm thinking about it........

Ooooo, oooooo - I just posed it to the missus, and she ok-ed it! Go figure! Ordering now.......

Check it out here.....

That's a nice kit Pete. I've never seen 1/32 wings cast as one before - the Typhoon is chunky so those are impressive castings.

It's a resin kit, Sid. Cast from one piece moldings. This will be my introduction into resin & vacu-form kits.

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Pete - see below.

More pics - main construction complete.

post-406-0-97257700-1313525344_thumb.jpg

post-406-0-71740200-1313525374_thumb.jpg

Working up the courage to start filling and sanding. Got some very fine wet and dry soaking at the moment.

Jabo

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Jabo, nice work. I like the paint scheme you chose, nice and basic, and it'll look nice on the kit.

Rattler, That sucker aught to weigh aboot 40lb in resin...... Holy crap lad! I wish you well. I've never worked with resin on that scale before, but I imagine it won't be easy. Be very, very careful about the mold release agents, you have to make sure you get the parts clean or nothing but nothing will hold them together! (nor will the paint stick!)

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OK, got a couple of coats of paint on the topside now, it's looking kinda grey...The final coat will wait until I'm happy that the seams are gone. Then ditto the underside.

I've noticed that the actual aircraft has a whip antenna mounted on the top of the fuselage, just aft of the canopy when slid back. See below;

2078388874_1abf91304c_b.jpg

Seafire Mk.17 (SX336 coded VL-105 / G-KASX) by Traumahawk, on Flickr

This isn't modelled in the kit, but I'd like to add it. What's the approved method?

Jabo

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Whip aerial...or any aerial. Have you ever 'stretched sprue'?

Not sure what it's called now, I always knew it as the sprue - it's the carrier that the parts you are using are cut from.

Take a length about 6" long. Hold both ends in your hands (one in each!!) and gently heat it over a flame/heat source eg. gas or electric hob, for a couple of seconds and, when you can see it start to droop, take it away from the heat source and slowly stretch it by moving your hands apart. Get it to the thickness you want and stop - it cools very quickly so practice a few times. Usually the 6" length of sprue has doubled in length and gives you a thin line of plastic that can be used as aerial wire, handles, cables etc. Secure in place at the end of building with a dab of super glue or resin.

Grey plastic is good as it looks the right colour.

Don't try this at home, children, WITHOUT adult supervision........'Matches, matches never touch....they can hurt you very much!'

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Hmm, some of my friends are classed as 'adults' m8. I tend to keep sharp things away from them... :lol:

I've never tried the sprue (that's what I know it as too) thing but it seems straight-forward enough. Once I'm done building I'll have plenty of straight bits to practice with.

Jabo

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Seafire_FR_Mk17.jpg

As you can see, the original fitment is a whip aerial. As Sid mentioned, use the "stretched sprue" method. I keep several bits of them in my model kit, several nice long straight segments I cut up and store for just such occasions. Use them for stirring sticks as well.

Get a good idea of the thickness that you'll like, and practice a few times until you get it right. Not too much heat is required: once the sprue begins to melt when being held horizontal, you can gently pull the two ends apart. You'll get a varying thickness in the stretch, and this is usually what you want anyway for a whip aerial. Don't make it too thick, but not too thin either! It'll break or warp easily!

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