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  • 1. DDz Quorum
Posted

~S~ Nick M8,

No problem with the antenna, just get a plastic spru from the kit and hold a candle underneath it until it goes soft then pull the two sides away from each other slowly until you get the diameter of "string" you need. Hold still for a few seconds as it cools and then cut to required length.............simples ! :D

~S~ Mick.

EDIT: Ahh Skidders already told you how , didn't see that.

  • 4 months later...
  • 2. Administrators
Posted

OK, after a very deep breath, I took the masks off the Seafire this evening and well, given this is the first model I've built in 25 years it's not too bad. Bit of tidying up required, but generally not too bad.

And OK, a picture,

post-406-0-04885200-1344901373_thumb.jpg

or two

post-406-0-31566200-1344901400_thumb.jpg

Incidentally, the exhaust stacks aren't finished yet, I've just got them dry fitted

I do have a question tho', I've got some small smudgy marks on the canopy. Anything I can use to get rid of them?

Jabo

Posted

Smudgy as in clear buffing? Or smoked colouring? If it's just clear abrasions, you can dip it in Future floor wax. It clears up imperfections every time. Not sure what it's called in the UK. I use it as a airbrush clearcoat after the paint is done as well.

[edit] - I understand the product is called "Klear" in the UK??

Klear.jpg

http://www.andysmodels.me.uk/models/Hasegawa_F14A_006.htm

Technique described on a Hasegawa F-14 Tomcat.....

Posted

Be carful though, balancing your Spit on that liqour glass. Don´t recommend stronger then 80 proof - it can melt the plastic, and the paint of course! :drunken_smilie:

  • 2. Administrators
Posted

Build completed this evening with the ceremonial gluing in place of the pitot tue, you can just see it beneath the wing

Got some paint blemishes to sort then it's decal time!

post-406-0-17269000-1345158974_thumb.jpg

Jabo

  • 1. DDz Quorum
Posted

~S~ Nick,

Looks very nice M8. Are you going to use "Micro Sol" and "Micro Set" for the decals ? Also Eshark came up with a way to coat the inside of the glazing with something to stop the glue vapour misting it . Not sure if that is the problem you have ?

Did you say you were doing it in a factory fresh finish ?

~S~ P.

Posted

Very nice, Jabo!

@Mick - I only use white glue (Elmers, or such) for the canopies. It's plenty strong, and has no vapours, It also fills gaps nicely, and dries clear. I wouldn't recommend regular liquid cement or ACC - both have vapours, as you've mentioned, and will craze clear parts. No good.

  • 2. Administrators
Posted

Unfortunately I didn't know that Pete. What crazing there is is minor though. Going to use clearfix on the Beau. It's Humbrol's glue specifically for clear parts.

Jabo

Posted

Going to use clearfix on the Beau. It's Humbrol's glue specifically for clear parts.

Jabo

Probably an overpriced version of Elmer's, then! ;)

  • 1 year later...
  • 2. Administrators
Posted

Sadly I have to report an accident with the Seafire. During a move round here a box weighing somewhat in excess of 20 kilos was put on top of the kit box. Which contalned the mostly complete model (major decals on etc). Result, one rather squashed Seafire. I've had a look at it this evening and have decided to write this one off. I'll get another one at some point and have another go.

 

Suffice it to say that the Beau and the Lanc are now safely stored elsewhere.

  • 2. Administrators
Posted

That was similar to one of the words I used Dave!

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