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So Here's Mine...


DD_Brando

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I pushed on a bit and it's beginning to shape up

post-419-0-23035100-1313366700_thumb.jpg post-419-0-94291600-1313366723_thumb.jpg

Guitarists may recognise my throttle control as coming off a Fender Telecaster - solid metal, knurled for grip and pretty damned cool! :lol:

I started out by buying a Bodnar BU0836X circuit board a while back- and the throttle will run through that, along with various buttons and pots that I'm planning to add to the stick base as outriggers. Meanwhile, the X & Y axes will use the CH PCBs and wiring as usual. The missing four-way hat (sawn off the handle) will reappear as single buttons, two on the stick, two on the base. Likewise with the rest of the throttle buttons and one spare axis. I hope to get an axis up near the top of the stick and use it for prop pitch. There's a big empty space where the mode button normally fits.

watch this space ;)

B

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It's always interesting seeing other folks take on DIY joysticks, especially how they think up ways of using odd bits to make something unique and personal. I enjoy this side of the game almost as much as flying. It's looking good Brando.

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Thanks for the encouragement fellas, :thumbsu: and I'm dividing my time today between the rig I'm rebuilding and working on this project.

I realised last night that the trigger, the red bit, is unnecessary if I substitute a pair of buttons in the space, one for m/g and one for cannon.

post-419-0-26028900-1313492343_thumb.jpg Roughly placed for photo. Cut in properly it'll be much neater & I'll be able to press them both together if required

Using the shift function in the CH Control manager will enable me to fire rockets and/or drop bombs too, wicked!

For RoF I guess I could use the shifted commands to cock the guns or whatever.

Now where's that Dremel? :sword:

B

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Onwards to the new 'trigger' section. I drilled a pattern of holes around the trigger frame, to key the Milliput, and placed a double sheet of plastic between the two halves of the stick.

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Then I mixed up the putty and pressed it all around the required spot.....

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The two halves need to dry before I grind out the holes for the buttons. I have levelled the two faces using a roll of plastic insulating tape (dipped in water) as a roller...

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The next job will be to separate the two halves...cys :icon_salut:

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  • 2 weeks later...

Just a little teaser, showing progress to date. At the beginning I had no idea that I would need to build a centre mount for the new stick - but then I realised that it wouldn't fly without it:

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Valda's out buying Velcro; progress will be speedy once I can secure the pedals and put my chair into the mix.

B :sword:

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About half an hour's work in the morning and then I'll start the painting. I'm using a "soft gloss" multi-surface paint with a four hour re-coat time, so I might manage three coats tomorrow. Then it'll be a few days curing before I start adding the controls and button panel to it. I am slowly starting to get excited! :occasion5:

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  • 1. DDz Quorum

Impressive, both in workmanship and design!

First viewed this on my mobile and thought you had used solvent weld for the joints, but now I see you (also) screwed them.

Must have taken a high degree of skill, especially with only one hand to do the work.

Photo makes it look like the central columns make getting the feet on the pedals a bit awkward though?

Is that just the angle of the shot?

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Impressive, both in workmanship and design!

First viewed this on my mobile and thought you had used solvent weld for the joints, but now I see you (also) screwed them.

Must have taken a high degree of skill, especially with only one hand to do the work.

Photo makes it look like the central columns make getting the feet on the pedals a bit awkward though?

Is that just the angle of the shot?

Thanks, Rog, for your kind comments! :wave:

First off, I have to say that the original inspiration came from Roger Dodger Aviation; I just used their free video to copy the design.

It's a great idea, and I've adapted it to suit my 'special needs' :icon_lol: And it is probably the only version built by a one-armed bricklayer!

I did consider solvent welding but settled instead on using short, bolt-headed, self-tapping screws. They conveniently fit the standard magnetic tool-holder that goes into my battery-operated drill, and the design includes a hole-cutting tip on the screw. So it was a bit of a doddle to set up in that way. But cutting pipe one-handed was a nightmare, even using a sharp saw and a work-mate to grip it. I persisted at it and even learnt a quick way to remove swarf from the rim of the cut tube; using one of the holes in the work-mate's deck, rotate the pipe at 45 degrees so that the rim contacts the edge of the hole and grinds the swarf away. Easier done than said!

All in all I was glad to have resisted the call to glue it up. Trial and error doesn't work with solvent welding, and with fittings about £1 a throw I couldn't afford to screw up. The self tappers pull the whole thing rigid and allow for retries!

I will take a shot later that will show how easy it is to climb into the new 'pit. It's all designed around the standard rolling, rotating office-chair. The pilot rolls into place and then straps the chair to the frame, usefully preventing further rolling or rotating from the chair. It's as comfortable as any of the specialised pits I've used before, and possibly the best. :thumbsup:

I'm off to paint on the last coat of grey. The 'plumber's nightmare' is squatting menacingly in the centre of my room, looking mean and businesslike.

cheers!

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