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Looking To Start Building Again...


Jabo

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Chaps, recently I've been considering picking up the paintbrush and doing a little light kit building for the first time in years. Bearing in mind that all the stuff I had disappeared years ago, what in your opinion(s) do I need to get started/essentials? Apart from a kit that is...

Oh and I want to try my hand at spraying too...

Jabo

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Chaps, recently I've been considering picking up the paintbrush and doing a little light kit building for the first time in years. Bearing in mind that all the stuff I had disappeared years ago, what in your opinion(s) do I need to get started/essentials? Apart from a kit that is...

Oh and I want to try my hand at spraying too...

Jabo

Nice to hear you are getting into it.

This list will no doubt get added to:

Good eyesight

Steady hand

Patience

Place away from others

Modelling knives with a selection of curved and straight blades

Straignt tweezers, curved tweezers

Various grades of glasspaper

Wooden board to build on

Small hand/electric drill

Polystyrene glue, super glue, epoxy glue

cocktail sticks to apply glue

Clothes pegs to hold things together

Various sizes of elastic bands to hold things together

Lint free cloth to wipe and dry

Soap tissues to clean surfaces

A clamp that can stand alone on a surface so's you can use both hands

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Thanks m8, for the drill thing, I was contemplating investing in a basic Dremel sort of thing. Is this the right way to go?

Jabo

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Thanks m8, for the drill thing, I was contemplating investing in a basic Dremel sort of thing. Is this the right way to go?

Jabo

That's what I've got - it came with a few useful attachments and is easy to use.

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pantyhose and a vacuum cleaner to defeat the rug monster and recover small fiddley bits that tend to fly off, defy the laws of physics, and never land where you expect. :thumbsu:

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pantyhose and a vacuum cleaner to defeat the rug monster and recover small fiddley bits that tend to fly off, defy the laws of physics, and never land where you expect. :thumbsu:

I don't see how hoovering whilst wearing pantyhose will help :unsure:

Jabo

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I get it, he's talking about slipping hose over nozzle of vacuum to sweep the floor.

Little pieces you drop and can't see, will get sucked up to the stocking, and cling there while the vacuum continues pulling air past it. :thumbsu:

Gosh I hope I said that right, without any sexual innuendos <_<.

I was also thinking the panty hose would make a great filter on a PC case. :thumbsu:

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pantyhose and a vacuum cleaner to defeat the rug monster and recover small fiddley bits that tend to fly off, defy the laws of physics, and never land where you expect. :thumbsu:

I don't see how hoovering whilst wearing pantyhose will help :unsure:

Jabo

Its all about support...wouldnt want to throw a clot while vacuuming. :bg:

pantyhose and a vacuum cleaner to defeat the rug monster and recover small fiddley bits that tend to fly off, defy the laws of physics, and never land where you expect. :thumbsu:

I don't see how hoovering whilst wearing pantyhose will help :unsure:

Jabo

Its all about support...wouldnt want to throw a clot while vacuuming. :bg:

Seriously...What toad said, if you were serious; which I hope you weren't THAT serious, but if you were...then yeah, what he said. ;)

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No, I wasn't serious, although I didn't fully understand what you meant. Toads post has clarified that nicely.

Here's a paint/glue related question though. I've noticed that when spraying fuselages and other large areas, you are going to spray over surfaces which may need to have glue applied for fitting antennas etc. Do new glues work with painted surfaces, or would you need to clean the surfaces of paint before glueing?

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It depends, small attatchments are usually located in predrilled holes, so a touch of superglue works ok. ( I always apply superglue with a pin on small objects this prevents a gloop going over the model. Drop the superglue onto a pin and then touch this into the hole or onto the peg that you need to join. It also works when using small photoetch parts. )

If you have filled over the holes then redrill these to locate the parts on.

If its a larger object e.g. undercarraige doors then clean back the paint to join

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So cyano works over paint eh? Interesting.

Thanks for answering an unasked question about how you glue photoetch parts to the model.

I've ordered the kit from Hannants - airfix 1:48 seafire. Cheap n' cheerful plus big enough not to be too fiddly. Researching colour schemes now.

Got a load of other goodies on order too. Quite exciting really.

Also bought a big pack of blu-tack and several dozen cocktail sticks.

Jabo

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Is that the new release ? meant to be very good, there are several in build and final kits of this here

http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?act=idx

e.g

http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=72529&st=0

http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=74149

http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=74164

http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=74110

great for tips and hints for your build, but be warned some of these guys are every bit as "dedicated" as some of those on the zoo

build it for yourself and enjoy it !!!

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So cyano works over paint eh? Interesting.

Thanks for answering an unasked question about how you glue photoetch parts to the model.

I've ordered the kit from Hannants - airfix 1:48 seafire. Cheap n' cheerful plus big enough not to be too fiddly. Researching colour schemes now.

Got a load of other goodies on order too. Quite exciting really.

Also bought a big pack of blu-tack and several dozen cocktail sticks.

Jabo

Yep....I use it for all sorts of PE; ship railings and decks are normally prepainted before marrying, and I just run a line of cyano at the joint. Havent had a problem. For larger items, I use tenax 7r which is the same as micro-weld; the paint definitley needs to be cleared away before mating the surfaces together.

Oh and make sure you get some super glue with different curing times, some things you want a little more time to work with. Once your satisfied, just spray a little zip kicker in the area and the glue cures instantly.

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OK, all sorts of goodies arrived in the post this morning, so I'm going to take a few days to read up on the source material before deciding on paint, particularly for the interior.

Here's a quick question though, the model comes with optional underwing wockets/wails as well as a belly drop tank - do I fit these or not?

Jabo

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OK, all sorts of goodies arrived in the post this morning, so I'm going to take a few days to read up on the source material before deciding on paint, particularly for the interior.

Here's a quick question though, the model comes with optional underwing wockets/wails as well as a belly drop tank - do I fit these or not?

Jabo

Typically the instructions will tell you about the mix that can be underslung...for instance, I am working on a P47 that could be built as two different a/c and each variant has different underwing stores depending on the role it would fulfill (ground atk/escort/etc) I opted to go with a bomber escort version eliminating all except for the belly tank.

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  • 1 month later...

Don't forget the super glue setting agent, not sure what the technical name is, "quickset", or somesuch. Also, one of those small candle-in-a-brass-tin candles comes in handy if you're into using heated sprue (that's the extra plastic, usually in stick form, from the mold), which can then be stretched and attached for radio antennas. This takes practice. It can also be done to put it on the model limp, and pass the candle under the "wire" to tighten it up, but you have to be really careful with that.

I found that brushes were really less than ideal per what the finished product looked like (brush marks). I suspect an airbrush will give a much nicer finished look, though I've never used mine for lack of compressor/water trap, etc.

Oh, a fume hood would be a good idea. Draw the fumes away so you don't breath them.

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