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Joystick Advice Please!!


Ash

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Hey Guys,

As briefly mentioned elsewhere I currently play with an old, knackered £19 Trust joystick which I've had knocking around for a few years, the trigger is clicky, throttle slider is sloppy, etc, etc!

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Hey Guys,

As briefly mentioned elsewhere I currently play with an old, knackered £19 Trust joystick which I've had knocking around for a few years, the trigger is clicky, throttle slider is sloppy, etc, etc!

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the G940 does look very nice and I am half tempted to wait for some solid reviews - I could get then get TrackIR first . . . .

Rudder pedals are an unknown to me as I'm used to a twist stick, that said, I know that I don't use rudder as much as I should so pedals could actually help?!

Am having a massive brainfart with this decision!!

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the G940 does look very nice and I am half tempted to wait for some solid reviews - I could get then get TrackIR first . . . .

Rudder pedals are an unknown to me as I'm used to a twist stick, that said, I know that I don't use rudder as much as I should so pedals could actually help?!

Am having a massive brainfart with this decision!!

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Ash,

I don't have an X-52, but loads here do, so they can give you good info.

All I would say, since you've got a 'working' joystick I would get a head tracking system first. It really does improve the enjoyment of IL-2 immensely, compared to a new joystick.

At least with a dodgy joystick + TrackIR, you can see people sneak up on you and you can do something about it. Whereas with a new X-52 and no TrackIR, you'll have a lot of buttons you could to set to HIT REFLY, since you still won't be able to see enemies sneak up you.

I've just gotten some Saitek Rudder Pedals, previously I was a twister too. I still used rudder twisting a lot, previously, for shooting. But it's hard to centre the ball on aircraft that are hard to trim with a twister stick, like the Bf-109. I would say pedals would be 3rd thing to get.

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Ash,

I don't have an X-52, but loads here do, so they can give you good info.

All I would say, since you've got a 'working' joystick I would get a head tracking system first. It really does improve the enjoyment of IL-2 immensely, compared to a new joystick.

At least with a dodgy joystick + TrackIR, you can see people sneak up on you and you can do something about it. Whereas with a new X-52 and no TrackIR, you'll have a lot of buttons you could to set to HIT REFLY, since you still won't be able to see enemies sneak up you.

I've just gotten some Saitek Rudder Pedals, previously I was a twister too. I still used rudder twisting a lot, previously, for shooting. But it's hard to centre the ball on aircraft that are hard to trim with a twister stick, like the Bf-109. I would say pedals would be 3rd thing to get.

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Hi Ash

You could take the CH route and just leave the throttle until you have the extra cash. The rudder pedals are definitely necessary with a CH stick and, besides, once you get them you certainly won't want to go back to anything twisty. The stick has a throttle wheel on the base and it works pretty well as a stop-gap.

As well as having THE very best software of any stick made, the CH gear is noted for it's longevity and 'moddability.' My HOTAS is composed of a Fighterstick modded with the left-hand conversion (by a talented American fellow) with the internals, buttons and axes of a second fighterstick built into it, plus pedals for yaw and brakes. The whole plot is seven years young, and I have never needed to change even a spring. It shows no sign of wearing out whatsoever. I know several other people who have been using them even longer - they just do not break! Pots, springs and switches are very cheap to buy anyway. Even the most aggressive stick-jerkers are catered for as it is actually possible to buy a complete new gimbal mechanism if required, but I have no slackness in this regularly-used gear of mine. The most conservative estimate of time used here adds up to a staggering 10,000 hours! :o

Just how long the new Logitech will survive is a mystery. Based on previous models I wouldn't imagine it will do as well - but I could be wrong. But it's worth remembering that Logitech aren't selling the parts separately (yet) so it may be that a failed part will bring the whole thing to a halt. We shall see.

You may want to wait, throttle-wise, and consider the CH throttle-quadrant. I can't imagine Mr Maddox will fail to write separate throttles into his twin/ multi engined models in the Storm of war series. People with the Logitech system will look a bit sick when it comes to the tri-motor Junkers or the four engined bombers.

B :dog:

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Hi Ash

You could take the CH route and just leave the throttle until you have the extra cash. The rudder pedals are definitely necessary with a CH stick and, besides, once you get them you certainly won't want to go back to anything twisty. The stick has a throttle wheel on the base and it works pretty well as a stop-gap.

As well as having THE very best software of any stick made, the CH gear is noted for it's longevity and 'moddability.' My HOTAS is composed of a Fighterstick modded with the left-hand conversion (by a talented American fellow) with the internals, buttons and axes of a second fighterstick built into it, plus pedals for yaw and brakes. The whole plot is seven years young, and I have never needed to change even a spring. It shows no sign of wearing out whatsoever. I know several other people who have been using them even longer - they just do not break! Pots, springs and switches are very cheap to buy anyway. Even the most aggressive stick-jerkers are catered for as it is actually possible to buy a complete new gimbal mechanism if required, but I have no slackness in this regularly-used gear of mine. The most conservative estimate of time used here adds up to a staggering 10,000 hours! :o

Just how long the new Logitech will survive is a mystery. Based on previous models I wouldn't imagine it will do as well - but I could be wrong. But it's worth remembering that Logitech aren't selling the parts separately (yet) so it may be that a failed part will bring the whole thing to a halt. We shall see.

You may want to wait, throttle-wise, and consider the CH throttle-quadrant. I can't imagine Mr Maddox will fail to write separate throttles into his twin/ multi engined models in the Storm of war series. People with the Logitech system will look a bit sick when it comes to the tri-motor Junkers or the four engined bombers.

B :dog:

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Although I know the CH kit is very good, I have the Saitek X52 Pro (have had it for about 3 months now) and generally get on very well with it. The Saitek SST comes in for a lot of...ahem...stick, but I found it to be serviceable for my requirements. I'm still crap at the whole flying lark, but there's not much I can do about the pilot! There's a thread running at present about where the best place to get TIR from, and I mentioned there that RC Simulations in Bristol are very competitive - that's in your neck of the woods yes?

Jabo

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  • 2. Administrators

Although I know the CH kit is very good, I have the Saitek X52 Pro (have had it for about 3 months now) and generally get on very well with it. The Saitek SST comes in for a lot of...ahem...stick, but I found it to be serviceable for my requirements. I'm still crap at the whole flying lark, but there's not much I can do about the pilot! There's a thread running at present about where the best place to get TIR from, and I mentioned there that RC Simulations in Bristol are very competitive - that's in your neck of the woods yes?

Jabo

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also i would recommend trying Freetrack and save the money for better HOTAS, CH or TM Cougar. After many months using logitech cameras for freetrack i have found that Microsoft VX-3000 is much better investment.

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also i would recommend trying Freetrack and save the money for better HOTAS, CH or TM Cougar. After many months using logitech cameras for freetrack i have found that Microsoft VX-3000 is much better investment.

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If you play a lot you need good stuff that will last.

After having done this in the wrong order I'll give you my advice.

Before any of your other equipment comes into play you have to SEE the bad guy.

Track IR or Freetrack.

Step 1.

Get a joystick, nothing fancy. If you can afford it get a good one like a CH and just add the throttle later.

Freetrack (if you can change a light switch, you can make one)

Rudder pedals. The war goes on but I prefer the Saitek over the CH

Step 2.

Make this rig better with a HOTAS, CH or Saitek

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If you play a lot you need good stuff that will last.

After having done this in the wrong order I'll give you my advice.

Before any of your other equipment comes into play you have to SEE the bad guy.

Track IR or Freetrack.

Step 1.

Get a joystick, nothing fancy. If you can afford it get a good one like a CH and just add the throttle later.

Freetrack (if you can change a light switch, you can make one)

Rudder pedals. The war goes on but I prefer the Saitek over the CH

Step 2.

Make this rig better with a HOTAS, CH or Saitek

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Seems the over-riding experienced feedback is first getting decent situational awareness, aka - vision = survivability!

Being fairly noobish I do know that I fight in mostly 2 dimensions and struggle tracking in a turn fight with the hat switch so I can see the sense in this advice, I think I have a good 'feel' for turn ACM & stall but struggle with 'E' and the vertical plane. (encrypt with Operation Pedestal Anti-Tommy Enigma code for that bit by the way . . . .

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