Perfesser

There are 3 boxes there I can't see in your pic. I assume it's the top box (Swap Axis) you have checked? You left the Trimmer Force and Shake at the default everywhere? I found a Sidewinder 2 nearby for under $100 and am now doing all my controls over again. Not enough buttons!

Thanks for posting that. I had it all figured out save the "User Snap View Saving" checkbox.

Found this utility to unlock parked CPU cores, one click and I no longer get the 20 fps drop when in cloud..... sweet. http://coderbag.com/Programming-C/CPU-core-parking-manager Open Control Panel\All Control Panel Items\Performance Information and Tools\Advanced Tools then open Resource Monitor. All your cores should be displayed - see if any are marked as parked.

I want..... https://virpil.com/en/

I see the modules are always in pairs, dunno why mine is a 3 stick set. Uses up 3 of my 4 slots on the ASUS P8Z68-V. https://www.asus.com/Motherboards/P8Z68V/specifications/ No overclocking, Win 7 64bit. Questions. Pull all the memory and replace with a pair or pull one stick and put in a pair of 8g sticks. Should I use something off the Qualified Vendors list (on the spec sheet page) or will that just be old info?

I have 6 G of RAM now and could use an upgrade. Currently using a 3 X 2 GB Corsair DDR3 1600 set taking up 3 of the 4 slots on the motherboard. http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820145222 Any experts want to share their opinion on the best route to go? I assume I can't use a single stick in the remaining slot? That would pretty much mean getting all new RAM. Could I take out one of the 2G sticks and buy another pair? Or should all the RAM sticks be of the same value 4G, 8G etc?

Saw the new SW movie yesterday. I have to agree.

I tried all this after a cold boot and after shutting down Opentrack I can get Freetrack to start but no head tracking.... There is another fix I read about ... taking some .dll from open track and putting it in a game folder. If opentrack gets on my nerves I'll try that.

I have the answer. I adjusted my rudder to be more sensitive. Took out the curve, took out the deadzone, made the X saturation 80. The very first time it took off almost like it was on rails.

While I maintain there is something seriously wrong with this flight model Phil's tip about adding more dead zone in rudder does help a lot. The slightest input (no deadzone) initiates a swing. However, when you need any correction at all, you need a fairly good stab at the pedal but release it before (maybe even some opposite input) the plane begins to react. As soon as I stopped being gentle with inputs things improved. Another problem unrelated to take-off is that elevator trim is ineffective. Full up trim should be very difficult to overcome and hold the plane fairly steady. Mine oscillates between 80mph and 250 mph without any reason. Landing works better for me when I do it like a complete rookie. Point the nose at the runway, ignore the speed buildup(it hardly builds any speed at all) , hold off the runway and let the speed bleed off till it drops. This is the opposite of everything I've read on the Spit. "If you have 10 mph extra on the approach you'll carry that past the end of the runway all the way to Grandma's house"

Hmpf. Tried that procedure, all goes well till I try to start Freetrack - immediately get "Freetrack.exe has stopped working". On the bright side it seems if you calibrate opentrack carefully under the input "hammer" symbol and under "model" tab such that the red "X" is in the center of your head it helps a lot with the drifting center. Or at least it does with a 3 point CAP model. I can see how a clip looses center easily just by the geometry(off center to begin with, close reference points). A cap has 250mm between the 2 farthest points and rotates equidistantly around your head's pivot point. A clip is less than 100mm and off-center to begin with. On the other hand, if I tossed $1 into a can for every hour I've spent "saving money" with Freetrack I could have TIR 5 plus a spare.

Thanks very much Rox I could never get my Freetrack profile to work just right as I looked behind me. Opentrack does a better job of that but does "flip over" sometimes. Still very new to opentrack so we'll see how it goes.

So NO freetrack. Installed another... opentrack. Just stumbled on a better setup than I ever had in Freetrack. Took off on the second try in the 51. And I think the 8th try as well. The rest were less than good. Even landed once with no damage. I'll need some help with control setup at some point. Game? Simulation? Grrrrrrrr

Sigh....... trying to get Freetrack working first of all.

Looking like I have no choice............ Downloaded, bought P-51 and Spit.

When I'm trying to figure out a tricky problem I often wander around my "pile of stuff" while thinking things through. "To invent, you need a good imagination and a pile of junk." - Thomas Edison

I guess those foam brushes are good for something after all......

Ever since the first time I had to blow the dust out of the box I've been meaning to properly filter incoming air. After fixing the fans, I started looking at airflow through the case. Rather than adding more fans I thought to improve the efficiency of what is there. Fan grills are a huge impediment to airflow . most removed. Now that there's there more airflow we'll want to filter it to keep the dust out. I bored some 1" holes at the video card intake fans and another 3" directly in front of the CPU, adding a ram tube(single serving yogurt cup) to direct outside air directly at the CPU fan. I built up a little box of foam weatherstripping around the holes and a few stand off supports. Some self adhesive velcro on the case holds an air conditioner air filter of 12 x 15 inches. The velcro itself does hold the foam but to be sure I attached the fuzzy half of the velcro to the foam and added a few staples to be sure. Did the same at the original 4 x6 screened intake on the front of the case.

I've solved the overheating problem. I had the case opened before (high GPU temp of 63C)and once I closed it up the GPU temp would go to 70 in testing before I shut it down. Turns out 2 of the case fans were no good. One frozen solid and another barely ticking over. I had a couple of old power supplies here, a few screws took out the fans. I had to cut the (2 wire) connections and solder them into a main bus plug. Stress tested this over London attacking a dozen bombers and the GPU temp never went over 50C. I suspect that my loosing planes from system crashes is over. That didn't stop me from loosing another Spit last night.... bounced by an unseen human escort over He111's. On an interesting side note... if you use an LED flashlight to inspect fans the frequency of the LED can match your fan's speed exactly and give a strobe effect making it look like the fan is stationary. Use something OTHER than your finger to see if the fan is actually stopped. I'm sure I don't have to elaborate how I know this exquisite little detail.

Agreed. That was looking promising. Back to Mk I .....where is that pencil...

http://theairtacticalassaultgroup.com/forum/showthread.php?t=17886

I've wanted very much to keep this device on the right side of the stick (the left is in the way) using the stick preload adjustment but I just can't make it work. I can't get a good balance of stick forces in flight and trim forces to balance out. The selection of elastic material is critical. The plain ole elastic band works best putting the slightest left pressure on a mechanically centered stick. I may even go back to version 1 (flat bar and pencil) to save space. Simply some metal bent into an "|____" and slid under the stick with an appropriately sized elastic band, possibly a spacer or two is something anyone could cobble together. Insert pencil for Hurricane ops. This would be the simplest form, usually the most elegant solution to all problems and still Windows 10 compatible.

Considering half the programming software included with controllers doesn't work this might be the answer.

Yes Swep, the wheel does work in CLoD(and it has a pitch wheel too- and throttle) and everything else too, it's mechanical. Works a little too well. The smallest input there is too much and you gently go into a left bank instead of right. It does work to preload the stick left with the wheel then use the trim device to level. Really though, I wasn't so much thinking of myself as those who complained about the heavy wing. Most folks don't have the same stick and I wanted to see how easy it is to work around the shortcomings of the game. Version 1 with the elastic and pencil works pretty well. I like to tinker with stuff like this so the MKII version was a natural progression. The real credit goes to some forgotten Russian who first thought to put a bungee cord, or more likely some landing gear shock cord on his I-16 as an elevator trim device, where I first got the idea. And for the rest of you .. I'll work on a rear view mirror attachment, something we could really use.

Blame AP but I'm having fun with this now. This thing is just loaded with features: Coarse setter (not to be confused with course setter) - Large adjustments to accommodate different sticks. Tension cut-out (not to be confused with boost cut out) - Emergency release 24 thread pitch control (not to be confused with prop pitch control) -Tension fine tuning. It's made with simulation grade hardware using period correct production standards (cobbled together from bits lying about the repair bay, all weld splatter, flash, scale, burrs, sharp edges, overspray, underspray, and grease left for that "front line operational squadron" feel). Extensively tested and endorsed by an actual simulated pilot. Versatile, works for elevator or aileron trim on many different aircraft in all flight sims. Windows 10 compatible Invulnerable to enemy fire. Light weight, won't adversely affect the performance of your aircraft.