Mayhem

You could always just hook the LED in question to a AA battery to test it, which is how I usually do it.

Try Wax http://www.debugmode.com/wax/ there is a free version available. I haven't messed with it much but it is claimed to be very powerful editing software. I've used E.M. Capture for most things. The free version if actually pretty nice http://www.effectmatrix.com/Game-Capture/index.htm.

Is there any way or mod that allows you to have a free camera in a playback track that you might move around at will. I'd also like to know if there is any more advanced playback viewer that allows for rewinding or cueing?

Really any type of oil will work. You could just use vegetable, canolla, peanut, sesame, motor or baby oil as long as it doesn't go rancid. I think they like the mineral cause it's very clear and won't rot or break down but I could totally see you using SAE 30 though it's going to be all yellow/goldish looking.

Isopropyl alcohol is fine, the higher percentage type you get the better (80 to 90%) but I have used it extensively and it's fine. Just make sure you let it evaporate completely before powering up the equipment.

The CPU probably isn't the problem. If you are sure that the power supply is good it's probably your motherboard. It very well could be that capacitors especially if it's been sitting for some time. If I remember correctly the sorry goes like this. There was a formula for a dielectric used in between the plates in the capacitors that was stolen much like the way Plankton would love to get his hands on the crabby patty secret "formuler" (hey my daughter is 5). But I digress, when this formula was stolen apparently there was a mistake in the recipe that allowed for the buildup of hydrogen gas in the caps. This gas would eventually cause the caps to bulge, leak and cause premature failure. You can read more here http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Capacitor_plague . Anyways, I have successfully changed the out all the caps in one of these mobos before and it's actually my firewall computer now running constantly for the past year or so. I replaced the cheap old caps with some fairly high quality Panasonic brand. I think I got 12 caps for 9 bucks or something like that. At any rate, depending on how old the system is you can probably just find something similar on ebay for cheap. Or look in the local paper people are always trying to get rid of there old junk.

Personally I see the parallel circuit totally unnecessary as all you are really doing is using more components though if 1 LED burns out the other 2 will work but that isn't going to do you any good as far as headtracking is concerned. 1.5 Volts at 50 mA sounds right on the money. I have many high intensity IR LEDs as I got 20 for 3 bucks straight from China so if anyone needs one or want's me to make them a hat or visor let me know just pay the shipping. If you want IR LEDs go to deal extreme I have bought many things from them. The shipping is always free but it takes about 10 to 12 days to get your order.

By the way, I couldn't edit that message for some reason and the forum keeps signing me out quite frequently but, sorry not to get to you on this sooner just been too sidetracked chasing bandits. With my setup I go through a 9 volt battery about once every 3 or 4 months and I play a LOT. I'd estimate I am getting several hundred hours out of 1 battery and no cord. I don't know everything but I did go to school for electronics and have the certifications to prove it.

I don't know if you have this working or not but. First of all you do not need to run those LEDs at their maximum brightness or really even close to it. You are running them at way to high of a forward current and that is why they are failing. Try going for 50 to 100 mA. I run mine at 50 mA all day long. In fact what you will wind up with running them higher is the camera seeing something like what you see when you stand in front of headlights. Just cause 3 volts at maybe 700mA is the MAX doesn't mean you can or should run them at MAX. You want to run at about half that in voltage and current and even then for this application it is not necessary to be that high even at half. I only run my IR LEDs at 1 volt. Some can run up to 3 volts most are 1.5 volt max but you don't need them that bright at all. I'm running off batteries so power consumption was a consideration but if I go to a smaller resistor then the one I am using 120 ohm with a 9V battery my LED points wind up way to big in the camera view like the size of dimes. What I have now is showing up on the camera about the size of a pencil eraser. OK, you wanna use 5 volts, get yourself a 50 ohm 1/4 watt resister. It will handle heat better then that 1/8 watt you are trying to run. So you will have your LEDs at 1 volt with a 50 mA forward current running off your 5 volt USB using a 50 Ohm 1/4 watt resistor and I promise you there will be no more issues and you won't be wasting power or stressing out your USB port.

Hey Snacko, How do you use a second screen with a mouse? When I'm in IL-2 it hi-jacks my mouse so I can't do anything with it on my second screen. I though about trying to run IL-2 in a window but won't that give me a boarder if it's even possible to do? I'd love to be able to actually DO things on my second monitor while flying. As far as that keyboard "mod" if you can call it that goes, you'd be better off pulling the controller board out of that keyboard and making a box with push buttons and (MOM) off (MOM) momentary toggle switches if your not concerned with any analog input for trim control, fuel mix, whatever. I'm doing the same sort of thing however I need 4 analog axis as well so I have to look a little deeper into the interface aspect. I jet 10 of those switches in mini form from Jameco for 12 bucks. They can perform 2 functions per so I have 20 key functions just on the toggles alone. With a USB keyboard gutted for the controller board you can get 100+ function. You could make one really cheap especially if you scrounge for push buttons of old equipment.. You'll be WAY more satisfied with the results. Alternatively you could buy one of these http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16823175105 those not quite WW2 fighter style it is very cyber jettish. I like it. It has 3 states for over a hundred total functions and a couple of analog axis as well.

Does anyone here use UDPSpeed for displaying gauges on a second computer? If so what mod do I need to be able to use this online at least in co ops or semi-private servers games as well as those I might host that I might host?

Hey guys, I'm working on a trim/switch box project and have come to the realization that the method I originally planned for interfacing it with the PC isn't going to work. I was going to hack a dual shock controller and still would if I would get the potentiometers to work in place of the 4 used for the dual sticks 4 axises. I think the Dualshocks use some non standard 0 center pots that swing 5k in either direction off center, so trying to use a standard linear 10k pot isn't going to cut it. I was looking into options such as the BU0836 but they seem to pricey for what they are. I've looked into something called an A-pac which is another micro-controller that will give your 4 axises and 24 buttons. Alternatively I could build my own Mjoy16 or similar project but I would rather just buy something to save time. My last option I know of is using an arduino to read the analog inputs from the pots but I really can't find any examples of anyone doing this for sim controls. Anyway, if anyone here knows or knows of someone who has experience in this sort of think hook me up please. I really just looking for the easiest, most cost effective solution that will perform the functions I need. Thanks

Sorry, I did try to just copy and paste it in the thread but when that didn't work right I just attached the original word document I had made. I didn't have enough access to post a tutorial when I first wanted to make it so rather then wait around I wrote it up while I had time and the next day I was granted the proper access. Kinda backwards I know but that's why it turned out like that.

This is the support topic for the tutorial San's IL-2 FOV Changer tutorial. Please post here if you have any questions or feedback.

Sorry I have mine set to 1 and I still have the problem.

I was informed by BG that I was all set up to post a tutorial but alas this doesn't seem to be the case. Can someone please fix this.

Hopefully you will be.

Really nice Co-Ops last night to all who participated and nice meeting all the new faces. Just wanted to say in advance sorry if I spammed the mic any as I was pretty seriously buzzed after drinking a 12 pack. Look forward to watching a learning from you all.

Just wanted to say thanks to every one in last weekends co-op and all who helped me get set up on Teamspeak. I look forward to flying with you all again soon.

Good Ideal, maybe a firewall box.

You want liquid cooling? Look at this http://www.pugetsystems.com/submerged.php

its a big package, 2gigs maybe off the top of my head. I personally would download it through the torrent, much less chance of any errors, and just leave it downloading overnight. Its well worth the effort though. Try more like 4 gigs. Yeah I guess I did download the patch instead. That website sux and is confusing. That i were I originally got the patch. It's only gonna take 4 hours. Thanks for all of your help guys.

hum yeah there was no change in the loading screen what I downloaded was UP2.01 which came with the installer and 3 large cab files. I ran the installer and it said all went fine but nothing changed and I don't see any new splash. It did put the ultapack updater shortcut on my desktop as well as an ultrapack switcher and the generic mod enabler. I ran the ultrapack updater and chose update and now it's downloading for like 5 hours.