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Temps for a Q9400 Processor


Highlander

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After the melt down of my last processor and mobo I have obtained, at great cost to my marriage, a new ASUS P5N-D and a Intel Q9400 processor ( Quad core 2.66 GHz). My question is what is the thermal range for a set up like this? my old system would run at about 50c on the mobo and processor at full load. Now with what I have It runs at about 60c at the processor with a stock fan and 43c on the mobo under full load. I guess my question is does the quad core processors run that much hotter than the dual core ones do?

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60*C still sounds over-warm to me. Given the size of the average heat-sink on a CPU I would expect the excess heat to be dissipated keeping the processor down around 40-50*C. It's more about the heat-sink&fan(s)' abilities than the heat that the processor generates.

I really recommend water-cooling if you want reliably steady temperatures. As long as you do a little research, and mix & match the parts you use rather than relying on "kits", a simple loop doesn't have to be expensive or complex. My dual-core runs at 30* max, with an over-clock, for hours.

B.

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Any advice where to look for info on water cooling? I think that is my next step. I cleaned the processor and heat sink, use good paste and it still gets up to 65c under load. I have noticed that one processor is usually a few degrees hotter that the rest. The 0 core is the one, but it handles more of the process than the rest. Is this normal?

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I've never investigated water-cooling myself - knowing how ham-fisted I am, I dread the idea of flooding the insides of my rig with coolant. On the other hand, I don't much like the stock coolers either. At present (and for the last 5 years or so) I've been using Zalman CPU coolers which run seriously quiet, and do a damn good job at the same time. My Core 2 Duo runs at sub 40 deg under the maximum load I can generate. My next purchase for the innards will be a Zalman GPU cooler (too much of a wuss to try water cooling).

~S~ Jabo

P.S. Oh good, the insomnnia's kicking in again.

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I have a Zalman cooler that I took out before I recleaned the processor. I am waiting for some cleaner and thermal paste to come from Newegg Tuesday. When I put it on me dual core processor it cooled it down 15c. Now I am out of thermal paste and Radio shack is out too. Hopefully I'll be back flying on Wednesday night.

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@ Highlander

Sorry I didn't get back earlier. I'm not too sure where to direct you as far as watercooling solutions can be purchased in the US. Innovatek might be a good place to start looking, but I don't like placing all my eggs in one basket, as the saying goes, so I tend to mix and match.

Here's a few basics to consider:

Pick a consistent size of tubing, preferably 3/8" (Internal Diameter) or 1/2"(ID) and stick with it. Always buy the best quality tubing. Don't mix the gauges in a loop.

Avoid the kits, and avoid small-gauge tubing and plastic press-fit connectors. Avoid reservoirs that sit in 5.25" trays like the plague!

Use either compression fittings (as per Innovatek) or barbs to connect tubing to blocks, pumps and rads. I use barbs and compressible hose clips (called Jubilee clips in the UK) and I don't suffer any leaks at all.

Keep it simple. Unless you have detected heating problems in another part of the PC environment, or you want to mercilessly over-clock components like your graphics card(s), you only need a single loop at the moment.

That is composed of a CPU block, a radiator with fan attached, a reservoir, and a pump. And tubing to connect them together of course!

What you don't need is controller units, in-line flow indicators, or temperature sensor panels. Nor do you need any of the super liquids that are sold. These are just ways of selling you more gizmos for more profit.

Liquid wise, you only need de-ionised water with the addition of a corrosion inhibitor. A few dollars from an auto-store, as are the hose clips!

Remember that you don't have to keep everything inside the case, unless you are a LAN-party freak. I have my rad, pump, and reservoir located externally, actually mounted on the outside of the Rt hand side panel, and only the in-flow and outflow tubes and the cpu block are in the case (er, natch!)

I'll post a pic if I can find one.

B

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:) Thank you for the info Brando. I am looking into changing over to liquid cooling now. I received my cleaner and paste today, and after school tonight I replaced the CPU cooler with my Zalman cooler and the max temps I got with the black death with explorer running in the background,track IR and Saitek profile was 43c.

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:) Thank you for the info Brando. I am looking into changing over to liquid cooling now. I received my cleaner and paste today, and after school tonight I replaced the CPU cooler with my Zalman cooler and the max temps I got with the black death with explorer running in the background,track IR and Saitek profile was 43c.

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Hi Jabo

No mate, you don't need a second loop - you just take the outlet pipe from the CPU block and run it into the GPU cooler block - BUT this is where it starts getting complex, depending on the graphics card configuration.

By which I mean, once you have stripped off the shrouding and the heat-sink from the GPU, you also need to consider the DDR chips on the card too. They get pretty warm as well, on new-generation cards especially, and need cooling. Fortunately, most water-cooling firms have started manufacturing combined memory and GPU blocks, but they are pretty pricey.

Also, if you change your graphics cards quite frequently - as many people seem to do - you will probably need new equipment at each change.

Notes: CPU water-cooling is IMO a very worthwhile move. It's relatively cheap, and keeps the heart of your motherboard cool and clear of huge obstructions like Tuniq towers and all those other gigantic air-cooling devices! ;)

The latter point is useful as it offers more space to site cooling fans aimed at keeping other important areas ventilated. These include the Northbridge, the Southbridge and the power chips (PWMICs). Also the memory DIMMs and last but not least, the graphics card(s).

The water-cooling suppliers would naturally like to see you cool everything in the case with their products, even the Hard Drives, but this is really only for the rather rich, silence-loving, super-over-clocking, benchmark-fixated, wannabe plumber.. Air-cooling is still a cheap and practical solution for most areas of the PC. AFAICS the graphics card(s) stay happily cool as long as you are using the kind of shroud that blows the hot air out of the back of the case, and you are prepared to maintain (de-fluff) them regularly.

My advice would be to try the simple set-up first. You can always add extra bits to the circuit as you progress.

B

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Hmm, OK, I'll look into it, but the issue I have at the moment is the noise generated by the PSU fans, I'm running twin 120mm case fans, plus the Zalman CPU cooler, and the GPU fan and together they're quieter than the PSU! Might have to look at changing that first.

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