Perfesser

Thanks Painless, it gives me an excuse to look him up and thank him for the memories, gently put feelers out if he would document his experiences. I'd always heard he was reluctant to talk about it (I think his brother was killed) but when he wears a suit you always see his little RAF wings.

Yeah thanks, just a noob starting off with FMB, learning as I go. Got that sorted out. Having fun.

Got the pic. The happy gent in the center is our intrepid Spit pilot, I'm left. They're holding a pic of a hunting trip where the best way to lure a moose is a moose call combined with Mac filing a bent prop off the outboard.

Today, this humble simm pilot had the great honour

Thanks for taking the time to put this all down DT.

I seem to recall some motherboards not reading the temperature correctly. Maybe a quick google to see if your fears might be groundless.

I now believe the stats do NOT reflect the way the game is modeled. Trout and I just finished some testing and even right up to 6000 m the LA appears to be have the advantage. The only thing we have available that can deal with the LA is the 109G2.

I would be the guilty party there. That quote was right from the game's aircraft guide. High speed scissors is counter to what I thought scissors were, a low speed series of turning maneuvers

Yeah, I messed this up somewhat. I was not aware when you test the mission from inside FMB you're only in the plane you select as "player". When none are selected as "player" you can external view any of them but not fly any. The mission works fine in the game once I removed the player checkmark from all planes. Thanks for the quick reply anyway, this mission building stuff is sort of fun.

change what is the question........ first foray into FMB

I wanted to add a few things to a mission Mad Trooper created so in my first foray into FMB I did so. Tried his first and it flew fine, I could select any plane. I added a few flights and on one plane I clicked the "player" tab. I can only fly the plane with "player" checked, I'm assigned that spot when the mission loads and cannot change. I want to fly others so I uncheck "player" on that particular plane. When I load the mission I can't select any plane. What have I done wrong?

Figures, oh well.

There was talk in another thread about the difficulty of keeping the ball centered without any sort of reference beyond the in-cockpit gauge. If there was some way of reading the game's output for the slip/skid (not my area of expertise) it would be fairly simple to make a remote gauge using an LED display or a bank of LED's. Hell, you could even rig the output to swivel your chair with an actuator with a little more work for that seat of the pants feel. Is it possible to read the games output? If so, I might see this as an interesting project to pursue.

Both submerged so they aren't using radar, only passive sonar, just listening, not pinging away for echoes. Even radar I think they used to just use briefly looking for aircraft as they surface. Maybe not any more. Any emission(sound or radio)

Just my failure to Read The F Manual. My first foray into building anything with LED's. Yes current overload, resistor seems have fixed it. In a couple of days I'll have access to a digital multimeter and get some proper readings on voltage and current.

I would call him Chaplin (Charlie) cause I haven't heard a word out of him yet. Buster (Keegan) .. same reason.

JU87 D5 running 4.09 mods. I set the Stuvi bomb sight and it salvos all the bombs. Is there a control I can't see to get a separate release for 2 drops?

Every time I alt tab out something goes wonky(TS mic hiss or Freetrack lockup) or the game crashes. If I use the windows key it almost always works fine. In your case I might try a system restore to a date before the problems surfaced but since my last suggestion caused you more problems I'll just

I used to have issues with choppiness (some process taking up CPU at the worst time) but I now go into task manager and set IL2FB.exe to "high" or "realtime" priority after the game starts. I set TS to "above normal". This has always made things better for me, however, a few Dogs tried that and their situation got worse. You could go through all processes to see if any others are at high priority. Ctrl+Alt+Del to bring up task manager, select task, right click, set priority, ignore warning. Kinda curious why TrackIR(with Freetrack) is always at lowest priority...... Something else I haven't done: A Guide to Optimizing IL-2 for Multi-Core CPUs. http://il2.netteq.com/guides/multicore/multicore.html

It was a sight to see, I think the old fairy tale "7 in one blow" would apply.......

One LED burned out last night. Apparently they can't handle the .2 volts over their 1.6v rating. (3 in series = 4.8v) USB ports have at least 5v, (huge warning in caps on the site, USB forces to 5v) you should put a resistor in series with the LED's. This would explain why the set of LED's was flashing and also why one burned out. RTFM: Had I bothered to look on the Freetrack site they have a handy-dandy setup calculator where you plug in your specs and it does all the calculations. My LED's are rated at 1.6v but they work fine (with a lot longer life) and still give a very good signal at 1.5v(tested with a battery). Plug the numbers in and a 10 ohm resistor is all that's needed. Also they must already be wide angle because they give a good signal even 90 degrees off the viewing angle without sanding them down flat. I might rough sand the tips to cut down the "flare" when angled directly at the camera.

I've based all my builds on commercially available gaming rigs. Alienware for the really hot stuff. Tom's Hardware has great packages, updated as hardware becomes available, no guesswork. Saved me $1000 on my last build. http://www.tomshardware.com/theme-reviews-build-your-own,156-1.html

Guy at the store had no clue why they flash, I suspect one of them is overly sensitive to the .2 overvolt and cuts in and out. So I bought a 6 more LED's, made a spotlight and still wasn't happy. Reflects off the hat, my nose, chin and earlobes are especially bad when you turn your head. I was pretty happy about using a USB port to power them ( i have a remotely powered USB hub, from 115 v, not connected to the computer at all). Although it does seem to power them fine off the ports in the G15 keyboard that give you a "low power" message when you try to plug any other device into it. Already had all the soldering stuff out so I took the 3 good LED's out of my original 6, ground the ends down as far as I dared and made em flat and then I mounted them on the hat. Just popped holes in the fabric(cardboard in the brim) and slid the leads through, soldered em on, then bent the leads to aim them. Sayal Electronics had some 1 inch adhesive velcro tabs, should hold the wires out of harms way. Hacked up another USB cable and powered it up. Works great all the time with a tiny exposure adjustment for ambient lighting. Bottom line. This works great with a few cautions. If your room has greatly variable light go with the LED's on the hat or headset. If you are in the basement then the reflectors probably work well enough. Measure your model dimensions and model position carefully and enter them.(under the model tab)

Got a problem here. I found a local supply and made an IR spotlight out of 6 LED's. 1.6v @ 50mA

Worked like a charm gec, good call. They are on.