Crash

As requested here is a WIP shot of the progress so far. As you might notice I have rotated the base of the Sidewinder as previously it was a bit wide where I had it mounted.

I did this http://dangerdogz.com/forums/topic/7949-more-x52-madness/?hl=%2Bx52+%2Bmadness#

I hope that you get it sorted soon Zooly. Just keep in touch.

I have just spent £6.80 and am the "owner" of a P-51. Bargain or what

Might be tempted to get this. http://forums.eagle.ru/showthread.php?p=1703222#post1703222 Yet another thing to learn along with A10C. Clifford, Rise of Flight and FC3

@ Arthur http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Remote-Shutter-Release-switch-for-Canon-EOS-550D-600D-1000D-450D-60D-G12-RS-60E3-/261118746234?pt=UK_Photography_DigitalCamAccess_RL&hash=item3ccbe3de7a

For those who dont have room or permission for a permanent cockpit this could bee the answer http://simhq.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/3747111/Learning_phase_Building_a_SimL#Post3747111

I remember Viz

Now you have that part sorted, start planning how you are going to fix you X52 handle onto a FFB MS Sidewinder Mine is still in progress.

I am very pleased with the way it turned out however there is an issue with Il-2 in that it doesnt see some of the axis of the Bodnar board and I have had to move some wires about so my rudder pedals work I am using Xpadder for mapping the keystrokes to the buttons and it seems a good program.

1.2.3 update now out http://forums.eagle.ru/showthread.php?p=1685030#post1685030

Well its back together and working This is the button assembly in the right throttle, as you can see I cut through all the printed circuits I could find (on both sides of the board ) This is the wire and housing This is the underside of the throttle after threading the bundles of cables down the handles. I then feed the cables out of the rear plate All done and the LED works Just like a bought one only better.

I emailed Leo and was told that it would work using the planned connections but would need a 300 ohm resistor. So I bought a small pack on ebay and its in the post I have now reassembled the throttle and done a functions check so when the resistor arrives it will be finished (maybe) I might put some photos up this week.

Thats what I thought. I didnt want to try it without asking.

Project update:- After making sure that all the printed circuits were cut, I soldered lots of wires onto the 4 buttons and the 2 hat switches. I have tested it and all the buttons and rotaries worked Wire bundles have been grouped together and heat shrinked different colours so I would know what each was fed off.I have fed the bundles down the levers and secured them with tie wraps screwed to the throttle base. I would like an led so I would know if the power was on. I have bought a 5v led and wondered how to power it. Can I take a feed off the top hat part of the leo board? There are connections for ground, 5v and 4 feeds from the buttons.

Hi, there are some maps here http://www.webring.org/l/rd?ring=il2sturmovikforg;id=5;url=http%3A%2F%2F777avg.com%2F scroll down the page

Got it working yet Kelly? Watch this vid. Its quite long but there is a lot of useful info about tweaking your profile. http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=TASEXUd4Oto

link is here JP http://www.naturalpoint.com/trackir/04-community/profiles/v4/CharveL.xml

I have a feeling that these will be very useful for my throttle project http://simhq.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/3728347/4_Way_HAT_Switches#Post3728347

Due to issues with my G940 throttle I have had to go back to my old set up. Now the magic mouse in the saitek software is sometimes moving the curser up to the top left hand corner of the screen. I used to disable this but now I cant find magic mouse in the device manager. I dont trust the mini stick and want to disable the magic mouse. I have looked in the Saitek forum but cant find anything. Been into the profiler and made the mouse "bands" it seems to work but I dont trust it.

Have a great day guys

Birthday greets

Last question, could I use the output of the buttkicker amp to power a car amp? Connector A feeds the pcb Lead C goes to a heatsink B and then into the transformer.

Shame that there isnt a simple & cheap solution. The most output I have seen for a 12V adapter is 5 amp. Guess thats not enough muscle.