Ms Sidewinder Ffb2 Failure

[Kira]

I've had issues with this thing for a while now, so I can't say this was completely unexpected. I'd be flying along, and the computer would make a "Bee-Boop" sound, at which point the stick would stop responding, force feedback would cease, and the green light on the base which indicates that it had a good connection would go out. I found that if I minimized the sim, then pulled the USB jack and plugged it in again, it would do the trick - most of the time. The way it was acting gives me the feeling that the USB jack on the stick has been on it's way out for a while now, and finally gave up.

Forgot to mention, I'm also getting the "USB Device Not Recognized (One of the USB devices attached to this computer has malfunctioned, and Windows does not recognize it. For assistance in solving this problem, click this message.)" message from the devices toolbar in the lower right next to the clock. I click, and the popup says "The location of the device is shown in bold type", yet nothing is displayed in the box provided. They, of course, recommend "reconnect the device. If it still doesn't work, replace the device".

So here's the question: Having already tried and failed to repair a USB to board connection on a headset, I'm wondering if it's even possible to replace a USB jack on a joystick? My attempt, based on the idea that it's the USB jack itself that has failed (due to the intermittent failure before), and not the stick, would entail a new jack, cutting the old one off, and splicing the new one onto the wire to the joystick. This sounds perfectly reasonable, in theory, yet most of the USB cables I've come across are huge, not like the thin ones on this stick and the old headset.

Thanks for the input. Either way, I plan to stop off at the local electronics store this afternoon and see what they have.

Edit: No luck locally. Guess the internet it is for parts.

[PropNut]

Hey Kira, if it is a broken connection on the USB cord it would be easy to check the solder joints and redo them. You can send it to me and I will check it out for you if you like but I am not sure if that is what is wrong. I can also walk you through checking the connect if you have a multi-meter.

How did the Freetrack clip work for you?

[Kira]

Hey there PropNut, I was thinking along those lines. Thanks for the offer, I'll put it in reserve for now. Having it working again would be great, but at some point, I need to learn to do this stuff for myself, no offense. Having tried and failed with track IR is one thing, but I have to try first! It can't be all that difficult to get a new end and splice it one if I royally screw this up, which I don't plan on doing.

As for the freetrack clip, I did, finally, get it working. As the saying goes, if all else fails, read the directions. I ran across something in the "frequently asked questions" or somesuch after deciding that if I had the artifacting dots problem, someone else would have too. It gave a simple "Adjust these two parameters", and it worked like a charm, moving it right into the three dots on a black background territory. Tracking in IL2 is on the fair side of good, but certainly better than a keyboard. I can fairly easily follow another aircraft, although it tends to get iffy out on the edges of extreme right and extreme left. Oddly, there's a "jumpy" problem in ArmA (one), where it seems to jitter between two magnifications, but that's definitely a secondary concern at the moment. I'm still learning how to use it effectively though.

I'm a flyer first, ground pounder second. I'm kinda lost without my stick!

[PropNut]

I know where you can get an X52 for 45.00 if you want a change.

On the freetrack we can tweak it so it is smooth and reliable.

[Jabo]

Personally, I'd be looking to splice a new connector on rather than try to repair an existing one. It's relatively straight-forward to do. Back when I was using Freetrack, I built myself a USB-powered track clip rather than have a battery powered one. Just google for the standard USB pinouts and go from there.

Jabo

[DD_Brando]

CH Products sell entire USB cables here

Just before you go splicing on a new USB plug I suggest you first check the entire length of the cable to make sure it hasn't snagged anywhere or been crushed. Also, with the stick plugged and working, wiggle the cable where it enters the joystick in order to see if there might be a loose connection on the primary PCB.

[Kira]

Thanks, but no thanks, PropNut. I tried the X-45 years ago, or maybe it was the one before. Either way, I found the basic layout to be very uncomfortable. I know the FFB2 looks like heck, but it's quite comfortable, and as much as I use it, it's comfort I'm after.

Jabo, that was my plan, until I discovered that there is no local electronics store that sells the things. I figure I can attempt a repair and get a new one. Nothing lost if the repair doesn't work. And I don't much expect it to given my history with electronic repairs.

Brando, there are no snags or crushes, I've been very careful about that. Unfortunately, I can't get the stick to work at all now, and the way it was acting, having seen what that sort of connection looks like on the inside (on the headset), I'm almost certain that it's a wire break inside the USB plug. That and there have been a number of times that I haven't been slow or careful about removing it from the computer, so I may have simply weakened a wire that way.

Good point about the PCB. I've never had the stick apart, as I've read that they're a bear to get back together...

And you guys aren't going to believe this, but wiggled it at the PCB end, and it just started up again... Okay, it may well be a PCB connection issue.

Hmmmmm.... I'll have to look at my angles with these wires, and see if I can get them straighter somehow. At the moment, I have the stick stored on top of the computer and must move it to my lap every time I want to fly. Perhaps a more permanent solution is in order.

[DD_Brando]

Good point about the PCB. I've never had the stick apart, as I've read that they're a bear to get back together...

And you guys aren't going to believe this, but wiggled it at the PCB end, and it just started up again... Okay, it may well be a PCB connection issue.

Hmmmmm.... I'll have to look at my angles with these wires, and see if I can get them straighter somehow. At the moment, I have the stick stored on top of the computer and must move it to my lap every time I want to fly. Perhaps a more permanent solution is in order.

I've opened up an FFB2 a couple of times and, as I recall it, the USB attachment is not too far in. There is most likely a dry joint in there, where one of the wires is still in it's hole (in the PCB) but the solder joint has broken down. Wiggling the lead makes the wire rub up against the copper trace and it reconnects, but it will probably be temporary. A quick dab with a fine point iron (25W max) should be enough to renew the joint.

If you do go in, make sure to photograph every step. The main screws are located under the rubber feet. There's no need to dismantle the handle! That is a bear. Just follow the wires in from where they enter the body. Soldering forceps are useful - clamped over the copper trace that leads from the loose wire, they will stop the heat from running all through the piece.