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Logi G940 Throttle Mod


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I fancied having another go with the the G940 as I wanted more buttons on the stick and 2 throttles.
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I thought that it would be possible to fit the leo board inside the throttle base but it was too high.
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so I bought a box and some buttons from Maplins. I stripped an old monitor cable to get the wires and used lots of heat shrink to hold the wires together. I added 2 buttons to the front of the left throttle and ran the wires down the levers and into the leo board.
All I need to do now is remember what button does what :(

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  • 1 month later...

Project update:-

After making sure that all the printed circuits were cut, I soldered lots of wires onto the 4 buttons and the 2 hat switches. I have tested it and all the buttons and rotaries worked :) Wire bundles have been grouped together and heat shrinked different colours so I would know what each was fed off.I have fed the bundles down the levers and secured them with tie wraps screwed to the throttle base. I would like an led so I would know if the power was on. I have bought a 5v led and wondered how to power it. Can I take a feed off the top hat part of the leo board? There are connections for ground, 5v and 4 feeds from the buttons.

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  • 2. Administrators

I'd want to know the current drain through that LED before I thought about hooking it up to my computer - USB ports don't provide much power and trying to draw too much current through can permanently damage the port. At the least you'll probably need a resistor in series to ease things a bit. Mayhem's your man for electronic jiggery-pokery IIRC.

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I emailed Leo and was told that it would work using the planned connections but would need a 300 ohm resistor. So I bought a small pack on ebay and its in the post :) I have now reassembled the throttle and done a functions check so when the resistor arrives it will be finished (maybe) I might put some photos up this week.

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Well its back together and working :)

This is the button assembly in the right throttle, as you can see I cut through all the printed circuits I could find (on both sides of the board )
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This is the wire and housing

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This is the underside of the throttle after threading the bundles of cables down the handles.

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I then feed the cables out of the rear plate

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All done and the LED works :)

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Just like a bought one only better.

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I am very pleased with the way it turned out :) however there is an issue with Il-2 in that it doesnt see some of the axis of the Bodnar board and I have had to move some wires about so my rudder pedals work :( I am using Xpadder for mapping the keystrokes to the buttons and it seems a good program.

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have not used xpadder but Joy2Key is veeeryyy strong little ap. One can make simplest joystick to have many times more key combinations. 

 

it takes some time to program but it vorks great.

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  • 1 month later...

Hi BluBear, if you mean the sensor for the FFB I will connect a switched supply to the stick so that the motors arnt working all the time. I am not sure what to do with the throttle handle and where I am going to mount the trim  knobs.

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Amazing work.  It goes to show what a person can accomplish with a little imagination and know how.

 

Also interesting to see how people fly in the sense of the buttons they use.  I have a CH set up, with both the regular throttle and the throttle quadrant for things like elevator trim, flaps, rad settings etc.  I find I have extra buttons that are not mapped to do anything.  If I had all my buttons mapped I probably would not remember the ones I don’t use every day.

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  • 2 weeks later...

I tested it last night and found that one of the pots wasnt working correctly, so I decided to leave that one out. I think it would have been better to leave the throttle part as it was and just fix it to the top of the joystick base as it would have saved a lot of effort and time. Oh well live and learn.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Its nearly finished. I still have to clip some cables but its working. After glueing the X52 handle into the M/S base it worked a bit loose and started to rotate so I re glued it after roughing the shaft up to allow the glue to key into the metal. I have also put a small screw into the shaft so that should cure it. I havnt any shots of my build but if you are interested in how to do it this thread http://simhq.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/3733240/X52_MS_FFB2_Hybrid#Post3733240 and these pages http://forum.1cpublishing.eu/showthread.php?t=18562&page=7 http://forum.1cpublishing.eu/showthread.php?t=18562&page=8

have some good info. The cable I used to join the handle to the X52 joystick base was 25 core  and maybe it might have been better to have a multi pin plug and socket as the MS stick base is now attached to the bases.

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YEAH!  :salute:

 

(I've been using my CH TQ a lot more recently since I gave up flying IL2. RoF and its 'no limit' on input devices  has won me over :) )

 

I reckon you must be giving DCS and LockOn a fair hammering? Beautiful cockpit m8, well done!

 

B

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YEAH!  :salute:

 

(I've been using my CH TQ a lot more recently since I gave up flying IL2. RoF and its 'no limit' on input devices  has won me over :) )

 

I reckon you must be giving DCS and LockOn a fair hammering? Beautiful cockpit m8, well done!

 

B

Thanks :) with regard to DCS not yet. I only have the left hand MFD plugged in at the moment as I still have a couple of niggles to sort out  but over the next month or so Rise of Flight, Clifford, and the DCS stuff should get their controls allocated. Then I will have to print out cheat sheets so I know which button does what. I still have to set the response curves for Il-2 as I have slightly repositioned the joystick and it feels different. I really like the button set up on the X52 stick and now I have the Logi throttle working without the reversal issue and hat switches/rotaries working it feels a lot better.

The whole pit situation has taken a long time to evolve. When I told Jackie what I was planning to do I was told that I was NOT having a car seat in the dinning room, even though we last ate in there 15 years ago and it was mainly used for storing things in the sideboards. After we got the room re-plastered I reorganized it so the pit was in a recess and not visible from the kitchen dinning area and the bonus was that it was better for the TrackIR :)

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