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Posted

You nerd Rattler! You painted each individual round according to their type! Is the panel that goes on top of these removable? Or is it glued in place?

1. Yes, yes I am.

2. The panel is removable now as it is, but I'm going to see how it fits after painting. It will be in 3 pieces like the real thing, and I may leave the other side closed it the fit doesn't look right, At least one wing will be nice and clean then.

This is what most planes look like at airshows, so I might have it as such, and make a small door-prop to keep the front gun bay door open, while the other 2 sit on the wing.

Posted

Are there any other panels you can glue open? If so, I'd go for it. Make it look like it's having a servicing.

Posted

I'm going to be making the engine cowling either removable, or off altogether. I haven't seen any pictures of P-51's being serviced with the engine panels propped open.

Posted

Hey, mate. It looks like you might have a bad case of Advanced Modelers Syndrome starting there. At it's apex it can cause one to have 15 projects going for 5-10 years and none completed in that time. If you need someone to talk to I'm available. Confidentially of course.

Posted

Hey, mate. It looks like you might have a bad case of Advanced Modelers Syndrome starting there. At it's apex it can cause one to have 15 projects going for 5-10 years and none completed in that time. If you need someone to talk to I'm available. Confidentially of course.

:roflmao:

That's me. I've been looking at the UbiZoo modeller's thread and cringing - I have a M1A2 to finish with a M88A1 taking out it's powerpack, and a Challenger 1 Desert War as well as all the 1/32 planes I have on the go.

This last bit of work on the Mustang is as much as I've done since my 1/48 Spitfire and the 1/32 Me 109.

Still, I'm enjoying it alot!

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Wing is on, but not filled/sanded yet. Fit was a pita!

Notice the flap/aileron articulation. The only ones that don't work are the elevators. Oh well.

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Posted

I miss doing that, but the eyes and hands just won't let me.....plus the outrageous cost of those things now. A few yrs ago, I saw a Tamiya 1/4 scale Buffalo for over $40. I figured it was time to quit.

Posted

I miss doing that, but the eyes and hands just won't let me.....plus the outrageous cost of those things now. A few yrs ago, I saw a Tamiya 1/4 scale Buffalo for over $40. I figured it was time to quit.

Geez, I spend that much sometimes on aftermarket upgrades!

Posted

coming on nice mate

the harrier Im doing is a real bitch - every seam has to be filled and sanded and there is fit issues as well

  • 2 months later...
Posted

Ok, latest update. First coat of bare aluminium on. The engine panels and gun bay panels are removable, so the gaps will be more noticable than when mounted properly. Also, the control surfaces are movable, so they will be displayed properly too.

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  • 2. Administrators
Posted

very nice m8. As a long since retired modeller, I have a question. ISTR that glues dont stick painted parts together, but I notice that the areas around the canopy (for instance) are painted. How you get things to stick to a painted surface? I'm guessing that either the glues or the paints have changed in the last 20-odd years?

Jabo

Posted

very nice m8. As a long since retired modeller, I have a question. ISTR that glues dont stick painted parts together, but I notice that the areas around the canopy (for instance) are painted. How you get things to stick to a painted surface? I'm guessing that either the glues or the paints have changed in the last 20-odd years?

Jabo

They would be scraped off, mate. You're correct - model glues do not mix well with paints, as the solvent melts the paint rather than the plastic. However, as the solvents also craze clear plastics, I'll be using white glue (Elmer's) to attach the screen and canopy, so there's no problem.
  • 2. Administrators
Posted

Ah, that would explain it. So are you using a regular plastic cement, or some sort of cyano?

Posted

Ah, that would explain it. So are you using a regular plastic cement, or some sort of cyano?

I use 3 types: a cyano based instant glue, white glue for plastic parts, and various Testors liquid glues (red tube, and very thin liquid in a bottle.) I prefer to use the Testors liquid for most things, but if I need a quick solid joint, out comes the cyano. It's good for gap filling as well.

Posted

here is the little brother - humbrol silver was used

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latest is a DC-3

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automotive rattle can used

it needs polished then futured and should look good

I would like to try alcan but the prep work is hard , everything must be perfect and my seams arnt that great so until I get the filling and sanding down pat then Ill stick to this

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Major work mostly done. Some gear details to do. Several issues with the design of the kit in general, but overall an easy kit to build for the average modeler. Hard to find room for all these 1/32 scale planes I'm building though!

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