BBloke Posted October 25, 2007 Posted October 25, 2007 Dave, I used to do a lot of detailing on chain mail and armor. Quote
delta7 Posted October 25, 2007 Posted October 25, 2007 Dave, I used to do a lot of detailing on chain mail and armor. Quote
delta7 Posted October 25, 2007 Posted October 25, 2007 Dave, I used to do a lot of detailing on chain mail and armor. Quote
BBloke Posted October 25, 2007 Posted October 25, 2007 I've got some very old modelling "dust" for want of a better description. Quote
BBloke Posted October 25, 2007 Posted October 25, 2007 I've got some very old modelling "dust" for want of a better description. Quote
Cold_Gambler Posted October 25, 2007 Posted October 25, 2007 Coming along very nicely (and quickly!) Quote
Cold_Gambler Posted October 25, 2007 Posted October 25, 2007 Coming along very nicely (and quickly!) Quote
guitarman68 Posted October 28, 2007 Author Posted October 28, 2007 Its coming close to the end of assembly, then i'll be on to the interesting bit painting Quote
guitarman68 Posted October 28, 2007 Author Posted October 28, 2007 Its coming close to the end of assembly, then i'll be on to the interesting bit painting Quote
BadAim Posted October 30, 2007 Posted October 30, 2007 Nice work M8, you have a nice feel for drybrushing, perfect for aircraft. Quote
BadAim Posted October 30, 2007 Posted October 30, 2007 Nice work M8, you have a nice feel for drybrushing, perfect for aircraft. Quote
1. DDz Quorum Painless Posted October 30, 2007 1. DDz Quorum Posted October 30, 2007 ~S~ Nick, Hope your feeling a little better now after your "gut rot" weekend M8 "Dry brushing" is great for highlighting,(instrument panels), as is "wash painting" for lowlighting, (panel lines) but you already know that by the looks of things. Obviously wash painting can be dodgy because it involves thinners but you can get around that by spraying a coat of varnish before hand and allowing a couple of days to dry. Did you re carve the panel lines where seems required rubbing down ? I think you have found a new "special friend" amongst the DDz M8........"Nice work M8, you have a nice feel for drybrushing, perfect for aircraft." BA you sly old dog , that was subtle !!!! LMAO Quote
1. DDz Quorum Painless Posted October 30, 2007 1. DDz Quorum Posted October 30, 2007 ~S~ Nick, Hope your feeling a little better now after your "gut rot" weekend M8 "Dry brushing" is great for highlighting,(instrument panels), as is "wash painting" for lowlighting, (panel lines) but you already know that by the looks of things. Obviously wash painting can be dodgy because it involves thinners but you can get around that by spraying a coat of varnish before hand and allowing a couple of days to dry. Did you re carve the panel lines where seems required rubbing down ? I think you have found a new "special friend" amongst the DDz M8........"Nice work M8, you have a nice feel for drybrushing, perfect for aircraft." BA you sly old dog , that was subtle !!!! LMAO Quote
delta7 Posted October 30, 2007 Posted October 30, 2007 you been sniffing the glue again painless? I am still using a brush to paint but hope to get a spray gun soon. I put on a surface primer and it worked better than straight onto plastic- tamiya white brush tips- thin down the paint. It should have the consistancy of milk. leave to dry before going near it again- I use xtracolour and they take 3 to 4 days to dry once you have done the basic paint job coat the plane in future and leave to dry- it is now safe to handle and you can put on effects. wash the panel lines, put on highlighting , smoke etc, without ruining the base paint put on decals. finish with matt varnish to tone down the future and seal on decals. hope this helps Quote
delta7 Posted October 30, 2007 Posted October 30, 2007 you been sniffing the glue again painless? I am still using a brush to paint but hope to get a spray gun soon. I put on a surface primer and it worked better than straight onto plastic- tamiya white brush tips- thin down the paint. It should have the consistancy of milk. leave to dry before going near it again- I use xtracolour and they take 3 to 4 days to dry once you have done the basic paint job coat the plane in future and leave to dry- it is now safe to handle and you can put on effects. wash the panel lines, put on highlighting , smoke etc, without ruining the base paint put on decals. finish with matt varnish to tone down the future and seal on decals. hope this helps Quote
1. DDz Quorum Painless Posted October 30, 2007 1. DDz Quorum Posted October 30, 2007 ~S~ Dave, yup I had just done a couple of hours of building the Titanic as it happens ! LOL Its an incredible kit but will take forever to finnish. Final coat of varnish would look better silk or satin finnish btw, this gives a scale "shine". ~S~ Glueless Quote
1. DDz Quorum Painless Posted October 30, 2007 1. DDz Quorum Posted October 30, 2007 ~S~ Dave, yup I had just done a couple of hours of building the Titanic as it happens ! LOL Its an incredible kit but will take forever to finnish. Final coat of varnish would look better silk or satin finnish btw, this gives a scale "shine". ~S~ Glueless Quote
guitarman68 Posted November 11, 2007 Author Posted November 11, 2007 Sorry for the slight delay in this next post Tamiya decided to recall their spray paint collection over misprints on the cans, and guess who ran out of undercoat Quote
GreyKnight Posted November 11, 2007 Posted November 11, 2007 GMan, did those canopy masks come with the kit, or did you have to do them yourself? Quote
guitarman68 Posted November 11, 2007 Author Posted November 11, 2007 Lo GK, There called EZ masks made by a Chris Loney from Ontario Canada.This set was specifically for the Accurate Miniatures Quote
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