1. DDz Quorum Sid Posted July 21, 2010 1. DDz Quorum Posted July 21, 2010 This is my next project, a 1/32 scale Me262 B1a Hopefully it will end up something like this. I'm using here for reference too. Quote
GreyKnight Posted July 21, 2010 Posted July 21, 2010 Sid, That camo scheme looks a bit tougher than usual, don't muck it up! Quote
1. DDz Quorum Sid Posted July 21, 2010 Author 1. DDz Quorum Posted July 21, 2010 I've seen a way to do the camo that I want to try. Paint the upper surfaces in the darker 'swirl' colour first. Then get some 'BluTac', roll it into thin lines and place it over the dark colour in the areas you want the swirls to end up. Spray the lighter base colour all over and then take off the BluTac. Hey presto, swirl camo with a spray on effect....... Quote
1. DDz Quorum Sid Posted May 8, 2011 Author 1. DDz Quorum Posted May 8, 2011 Making slow progress on this one.... Got it to the stage where the fuselage is joined and wings etc are together. Quote
1. DDz Quorum Sid Posted June 12, 2011 Author 1. DDz Quorum Posted June 12, 2011 Now at the point where the plane is ready for it's base coat of grey. It's all masked up on the canopy - the masks are pre shaped so easy to put on - so the grey can go all over. Once done it will have a matt finish so it will be easier to see areas for attention eg. filling and sanding. Most joints are good but it will need a little work around the wing roots and engine nacelles. Starting to look like it should Cheerzen Quote
2. Administrators Jabo Posted June 12, 2011 2. Administrators Posted June 12, 2011 Nice work m8. One question though, how come you can get precut masks for the canopy? Is that something you bought separately? Jabo Quote
1. DDz Quorum Sid Posted June 12, 2011 Author 1. DDz Quorum Posted June 12, 2011 Nice work m8. One question though, how come you can get precut masks for the canopy? Is that something you bought separately? Jabo Yus, they can be bought seperately - I got mine from Hannant's. The masking sheet contained pre-cut shapes for all 262 variants and they are usually made for a particular manufacturer's model, in this case Trumpeter. At a couple of quid it is worth it as you get a perfect frame effect. They can be moved many times to line them up straight and they stay on until all painting is done. Should be part of the kit i think, as it protects the clear plastic whilst building too. Quote
2. Administrators Jabo Posted June 13, 2011 2. Administrators Posted June 13, 2011 Like the idea of that a lot, no more gluey fingerprints on the windows! Who or what is Hannants? Online or high street? Jabo Quote
1. DDz Quorum Sid Posted June 13, 2011 Author 1. DDz Quorum Posted June 13, 2011 Like the idea of that a lot, no more gluey fingerprints on the windows! Who or what is Hannants? Online or high street? Jabo This is Hannants, a model store. Good delivery, almost next day. Quote
GreyKnight Posted June 14, 2011 Posted June 14, 2011 Looking the biz Sid. But did you say you're going to fill in the gap in the wing roots after you spray it? Or did I misread that? Quote
1. DDz Quorum Sid Posted June 14, 2011 Author 1. DDz Quorum Posted June 14, 2011 Looking the biz Sid. But did you say you're going to fill in the gap in the wing roots after you spray it? Or did I misread that? Yes, I fill in the gaps after a base coat is applied. At the moment the model is shiny and quite pale - giving it an undercoat of mid grey makes it easier to see gaps, the pale coloured filler shows up better when applying it and because it's a matt undercoat the overall contrast is better so making the model 'cleaner' and easier to 'see' areas that need attention. Sounds a bit I know, but it works for me . I do grey undercoat like this on all planes irrespective of the finished colour scheme, although I have used lighter grey on pale schemes. If there is only a small amount of filler and sanding needed then I won't bother spraying over the filler with the grey undercoat again, I'll just go straight onto the colour scheme. On this model, the undersides will be black - a grey undercoat reduces the possible number of coats over a pale surface and can help in giving a weathered finish. Quote
Snacko Posted June 14, 2011 Posted June 14, 2011 So, when you fill those gaps, do you use model putty and tape them off first? I tried using model putty last winter on a submarine for the first time. Couldn't find any videos or tutorials... what a mess.. I thought it would be soft for a day or so, but it's like a rock now and all over the place. I didn't know you should tape off the area.. So, that model went on the shelf till I got the energy to sand it (and I'm sure lot's of rivits) off.. argg.. For painting, do you use an airbrush? Quote
1. DDz Quorum Sid Posted June 14, 2011 Author 1. DDz Quorum Posted June 14, 2011 So, when you fill those gaps, do you use model putty and tape them off first? I tried using model putty last winter on a submarine for the first time. Couldn't find any videos or tutorials... what a mess.. I thought it would be soft for a day or so, but it's like a rock now and all over the place. I didn't know you should tape off the area.. So, that model went on the shelf till I got the energy to sand it (and I'm sure lot's of rivits) off.. argg.. For painting, do you use an airbrush? I use Milliput , an epoxy putty. It can get messy but one of it's advantages is that you can use plenty of water to smooth it and shape it when applying it. On a wing root, for example, where there is a long thin gap between the wing and the fuselage, I'll roll out a very thin 'sausage' of putty to the length of the gap. I run a very small amount of water into the gap and press the putty in, smoothing it over with my finger making sure it was a little wet before otherwise the putty will stick and pull out. Doing it this way I haven't found the need to tape off although I could see the advantage of that in some places. When it goes off it is fairly easy to sand and shape. Airbrush.....ooeeerrrr. I have an airbrush but it has stayed in it's box. I can't seem to get on with them, I create globs of paint and spatter paint everywhere. The last time I used it the top popped off the paint reservoir when I let the air through. Covered the freezer with orange paint - managed to get it off before the missus got home I stick to brushes or use the Humbrol spray cans or an equivalent, I can handle those easily and you can get most colours represented. Once I've finished the camo scheme I spray the model with gloss varnish - if the paint was gloss I leave it. This is to help when applying the decals, they slide better on gloss surfaces and it also gets rid of any transparent film in or around the decal that appears to stay when putting them onto a matt finish. There are other products that do the same thing so it's a case of finding something you are happy with. To finish the paint off I then spray a matt, satin or gloss varnish - this gives the right effect and also makes the decals look painted on. Quote
Snacko Posted June 19, 2011 Posted June 19, 2011 Maybe I should have wet down the spots where I was applying and also tried to wet my fingers or a sponge to wipe it down before it set. I have looked at tons of videos on Youtube on different techniques, but have not see a good one on using putting! I need to practice this. I also purchased a new airbrush just at the end of winter, but spring and summer came and I have not used it yet. Hopefully next winter I'll get back into modeling again.. Cheers. Quote
Wolfp Posted June 22, 2011 Posted June 22, 2011 Maybe I should have wet down the spots where I was applying and also tried to wet my fingers or a sponge to wipe it down before it set. I have looked at tons of videos on Youtube on different techniques, but have not see a good one on using putting! I need to practice this. I also purchased a new airbrush just at the end of winter, but spring and summer came and I have not used it yet. Hopefully next winter I'll get back into modeling again.. Cheers. Snacko...you can also use squadron white or green putty, which is what i use. I mix it with nail polish remover to get the consistency i need then brush or use a putty knife to apply. Nice work on the 262 so far. I am trying to come to completion on a 47 I have been goofing with for a couple of months. I dont build very fast or frequently. Quote
Snacko Posted June 22, 2011 Posted June 22, 2011 Thanks Wolfp, yea I was using Squadron White Putty. My first time using any putty at all. I had heard about using nail polish remover, but thought that was for smoothing it afterward. Thanks for the tip. Quote
1. DDz Quorum Sid Posted May 15, 2012 Author 1. DDz Quorum Posted May 15, 2012 Progressing nicely.... Masked and base coat painted, I put the 'Blu Tack' on to create the camo swirls. Took the blutack off and Pleased with the effect so I've 'glossed' it and put the decals on Used Tamiya acrylic spray cans. Easy to use and very smooth finish. Touching up to do and then a coat of flat clear before weathering. Cheerzen Quote
1. DDz Quorum Sid Posted May 16, 2012 Author 1. DDz Quorum Posted May 16, 2012 Now got a coat of flat clear to make the decals look painted on. Looking good. Canopy is lovely and clear, photos don't do it justice because of the reflected light but the cockpit shows nicely Weathering and staining next..... Quote
1. DDz Quorum Sid Posted September 25, 2012 Author 1. DDz Quorum Posted September 25, 2012 Weathered and almost done - always the final bits of painting like engine intakes etc. What I need to do is spend a day doing all the finishing touches so that I can say "It's done!" Quote
1. DDz Quorum Painless Posted September 26, 2012 1. DDz Quorum Posted September 26, 2012 ~S~ Skidders, Thats a beauty ! Did you use pastel colures to get diffusion or fade on the wing panels ? ~S~ P. Quote
1. DDz Quorum Sid Posted September 26, 2012 Author 1. DDz Quorum Posted September 26, 2012 Yus. 'Specially evident on the wing uppersurfaces, the black undersurfaces and the droptanks. Used your tip - a cotton bud and dry layers rubbed on. Works a treat. Quote
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