DD_Brando

Yes, I agree with Jabo that the first place to check is the PSU, as it's the first item in the line to suffer from a power surge. The "instant-on" that you describe could be symptomatic of that. B

Well, good luck with the Cougar. If you get away without needing to replace the pots for Hall sensors and have an iron wrist, a good sense of humour and a deep wallet, you'll do fine.

Well, good luck with the Cougar. If you get away without needing to replace the pots for Hall sensors and have an iron wrist, a good sense of humour and a deep wallet, you'll do fine.

Hi Ash You could take the CH route and just leave the throttle until you have the extra cash. The rudder pedals are definitely necessary with a CH stick and, besides, once you get them you certainly won't want to go back to anything twisty. The stick has a throttle wheel on the base and it works pretty well as a stop-gap. As well as having THE very best software of any stick made, the CH gear is noted for it's longevity and 'moddability.' My HOTAS is composed of a Fighterstick modded with the left-hand conversion (by a talented American fellow) with the internals, buttons and axes of a second fighterstick built into it, plus pedals for yaw and brakes. The whole plot is seven years young, and I have never needed to change even a spring. It shows no sign of wearing out whatsoever. I know several other people who have been using them even longer - they just do not break! Pots, springs and switches are very cheap to buy anyway. Even the most aggressive stick-jerkers are catered for as it is actually possible to buy a complete new gimbal mechanism if required, but I have no slackness in this regularly-used gear of mine. The most conservative estimate of time used here adds up to a staggering 10,000 hours! Just how long the new Logitech will survive is a mystery. Based on previous models I wouldn't imagine it will do as well - but I could be wrong. But it's worth remembering that Logitech aren't selling the parts separately (yet) so it may be that a failed part will bring the whole thing to a halt. We shall see. You may want to wait, throttle-wise, and consider the CH throttle-quadrant. I can't imagine Mr Maddox will fail to write separate throttles into his twin/ multi engined models in the Storm of war series. People with the Logitech system will look a bit sick when it comes to the tri-motor Junkers or the four engined bombers. B

Hi Ash You could take the CH route and just leave the throttle until you have the extra cash. The rudder pedals are definitely necessary with a CH stick and, besides, once you get them you certainly won't want to go back to anything twisty. The stick has a throttle wheel on the base and it works pretty well as a stop-gap. As well as having THE very best software of any stick made, the CH gear is noted for it's longevity and 'moddability.' My HOTAS is composed of a Fighterstick modded with the left-hand conversion (by a talented American fellow) with the internals, buttons and axes of a second fighterstick built into it, plus pedals for yaw and brakes. The whole plot is seven years young, and I have never needed to change even a spring. It shows no sign of wearing out whatsoever. I know several other people who have been using them even longer - they just do not break! Pots, springs and switches are very cheap to buy anyway. Even the most aggressive stick-jerkers are catered for as it is actually possible to buy a complete new gimbal mechanism if required, but I have no slackness in this regularly-used gear of mine. The most conservative estimate of time used here adds up to a staggering 10,000 hours! Just how long the new Logitech will survive is a mystery. Based on previous models I wouldn't imagine it will do as well - but I could be wrong. But it's worth remembering that Logitech aren't selling the parts separately (yet) so it may be that a failed part will bring the whole thing to a halt. We shall see. You may want to wait, throttle-wise, and consider the CH throttle-quadrant. I can't imagine Mr Maddox will fail to write separate throttles into his twin/ multi engined models in the Storm of war series. People with the Logitech system will look a bit sick when it comes to the tri-motor Junkers or the four engined bombers. B

I have to admit, I think I'm going to get an upgrade under way again. I've been checking the field and I think I'm going to stay with AMD - based on budget considerations, and the fact that my water-cooling will just bolt straight on to the AMD platform without any need to change anything. I'm fancying the Phenom II X4 Quad Core 955 Black Edition 3.20GHz, which can be quite easily clocked to around 4GHz. I may go back to Mushkin memory too, just because they are achieving really tight timings right out of the box - 7,7,7,7,20 gives plenty of overhead for loosening if necessary. Valda's agreed to purchase Windows 7 when it goes gold and I understand that it can be used on more than one rig in a household, so I'll be making the shift to 64bit this time around. The new platform will enable me to grab a new graphics card too. The x1950 is a good performer and I love it to bits, but it can't run DX10 and it's stuck on the 7.11 Cats. Time to move along I guess. B

I have to admit, I think I'm going to get an upgrade under way again. I've been checking the field and I think I'm going to stay with AMD - based on budget considerations, and the fact that my water-cooling will just bolt straight on to the AMD platform without any need to change anything. I'm fancying the Phenom II X4 Quad Core 955 Black Edition 3.20GHz, which can be quite easily clocked to around 4GHz. I may go back to Mushkin memory too, just because they are achieving really tight timings right out of the box - 7,7,7,7,20 gives plenty of overhead for loosening if necessary. Valda's agreed to purchase Windows 7 when it goes gold and I understand that it can be used on more than one rig in a household, so I'll be making the shift to 64bit this time around. The new platform will enable me to grab a new graphics card too. The x1950 is a good performer and I love it to bits, but it can't run DX10 and it's stuck on the 7.11 Cats. Time to move along I guess. B

That's a good hint & worth a try

The fix? Nothing quite so drastic - either a replacement part (offered by some of the manufacturers) or a couple of caps that need replacing with a soldering iron (if the manufacturer won't help). B

*expletive reconsidered* what a fool! If the thing was set up that the pilot definitely knew where the camera was and had arranged a risky take-off shot, or whether it was just a coincidence of positioning, that was a godawful piece of flying. Especially considering the long expanse of water that was available to build up speed on (on the cameraman's left side). The thought of just how badly that could have turned out chills me. B

After (2) try this if you have a flat-screen TFT or LCD monitor: Boot up the computer and wait for the normal time it takes to enter Windows Hold a strong light behind the monitor, so that it's shining into the cooling slots. It helps if the room itself is in semi darkness, ie no other light sources. If the backlight in the monitor is not functioning this trick will usually show the screen and whether Windows is actually functioning. If windows is working and you can see the desktop then it's probably a monitor problem. If so, give a shout and I'll check the (relatively cheap) fix for you. B

What operating system have you installed? Have you checked to see that Force feedback is enabled in IL2? I don't use an FF stick, but I'm pretty certain there is a box that needs checking somewhere. Have you bound your stick's axes into the game in the HOTAS section of the Controls page? B

Here's a shot taken from over the top - and a quote from the pilot who took it: "How bout this Moth'a...I was at 41000ft and it was at least 8000 higher than I was.. and it was only 1400L. This was yesterday on the Kansas Nebraska border..I understand she did alot of mischief last night. I gave her a wide birth...see ya'll online tomorrow."

Erm, isn't that: install the game and then patch to 4.08 before adding the AAA UI v1.1? Not all DVDs include patch 4.08. B

If I had to take a guess it would be an overheating graphics card. I know there's a few clues that say no to that, but I would take a look at fans, maybe run a long looping session of the black death while logging temperatures, check the settings that control fan speeds and so on. B

Aha, so the drinks are on Friar - we'll remember that

I wonder at the nerve of M$ sometimes. I also wonder why they would do such a thing, as it will certainly rattle Symantec and McAfee and likely ruin some of the smaller AV firms. Giving out a free product like this may be their way of getting a foot in the door of AV sales and I wonder how the bigger security firms will react? I certainly won't be installing it. There's a meaning to the old proverb about "not keeping your eggs in one basket". B

Go SILLY, BG, you know it makes sense I never really understood this fetish for external drives, unless they have a SATA II interface and/or are only used for storage. I've always used as fast and large a HD as possible, buried deep inside the best protection as possible, ie a PC. 5 years warranty is good too, and I've never had a Raptor go sideways on me in that period of time. That said, there may well be some reason why your external drive has gone strange. You wouldn't happen to have placed the Acronis Secure Zone on it, would you? B

...not forgetting this to plug it into ... and this as well...not to mention some volts .... and a couple of these ... or a couple of those ... even the moths in my wallet are starting to look depressed I still didn't add in any storage A couple of those in Raid 0 might just do! Let's not feck about when it comes to housing the beast

Run and sell the children! B

You won't regret switching, BG. I've been using Acronis for several years now and I haven't been able to fault its performance. There is even an on-line back-up availability. B

It'll be interesting to see if it performs as well as they say. Force feedback is of course the one function that is missing from my CH HOTAS that would make any huge difference to flight, but how long it will last is another question. Logitech has never been a brand I've got along with too well, either sticks or keyboards, or mice or speaker systems. Either drivers or construction quality has always been the problem for me & Logitech. I just checked, and my CH gear has just passed its seventh birthday without having any replacement parts fitted. I think I'll stick

I went with the Creative Fatal1ty wired phones and mike headset and it's probably the best I've owned in terms of reliability and longevity. What I really like is the mike boom, which is totally flexible and can be positioned wherever is right for clear comms - and can also just be brushed away from the mouth to drink tea or chat to anyone who comes into the room. I've always seen the swivel type as having one serious disadvantage which is the hinge or swivel part. They always seem to wear ot and cause the mike cables to fray and snap after a while. My other thought is about the charging system. How long does it last before re-charging is necessary, and how long can you keep re-charging the battery for before it deteriorates? B

When I first started building Airfix kits - Spits, 109s, Stukas - right on up to Wellingtons and Lancs, the basic fighter kit cost two shillings (2/-) in pre-decimal coinage. Which equated to 10 planes for a pound (20/-) Paints were 1 shilling a pot, and the kits contained an ampoule of polystyrene glue back then. So you could make a whole squadron for just over a £1 Later, when 'bangers' were still only a penny we would perform a little surgery and fit a banger in the fuselage with the fuse protruding. Then I'd run them down a piece of fishing-line from my bedroom window with the fuse lit and watch them explode in mid-air, fantastic. I guess I was a sucker for IL2 even back then