Falconise

Great temps! Good question! Keep it set as IDE. Don't use the AHCI feature, it's not needed for regular use. If you were to try the setting, chances are good that windows won't load if it was installed with the feature off. The only time I have used ot is when testing Apple OSX Intel version on a regular PC. Apple uses this feature. "allowing the drive to internally optimize the order of commands" is an NCQ function I believe. It queues files up in order to optimize multiple different calls usually from systems on the network -- it actually slows the drive down in home use and is really made for servers. NCQ can be activated without AHCI being on, so I am not too sure about this other than you don't need it. RAID = no. RAID is for multiple drives working together as a single volume, increases speed or built-in reliability with redundant backup.

Sorry, lol, mixed up system with Blairs! No issues with running under the vid card, just watch out for pinching a wire. It's the only way to run the line up there without an extension. Being on top of the heatsinks will inhibit airflow a very little bit, but that freezer blasts air downward through them and the only loss will be on top of them, very minor blockage. Much perfered to squeezing it beside the heatsink, blocking much more airflow that is going through the fins rather than on top. Nice mobo! What CPU and Ram? Vid and PSU?

Ok, will have to figure out what that strap setting does... There are only two profiles in that board, although you can save them (and the rest of the current bios settings and version) to a USB memory stick, and then reuse the profiles. You can save multiple versions of the settings too, so a 1GB stick would save hundreds if not thousands of settings. You really have to go crazy with voltages to blow up or damage the system, the risk is small. Might do a session myself tonight or this weekend. I have a Q6700 I am dying to try in my main system, as well as 4x1GB sticks of Corsair I want to try to get running (Vista running out of ram with 2GB).

No worries, that tells us a lot actually. What settings you are on when this happens? /edit: sorry, I need specs too! Never seen the 2 CPUs (experimental) thing, I may be using an older version of memtest. Memtest doesn't stop, even when it errors (fails), it continues to test and error until you press escape to reboot. What is happening is the system is rebooting because it is somehow unstable and doesn't like what memtest is making it do. Can you not get back into BIOS setup? If not, try powering the system down with the rocker switch in the back of the PSU. Leave it for a minute then boot up and see if you can get into the BIOS. If not, then you will have to reset the BIOS using the jumper on the mobo -- let me know if you need help with that.

After Playing with RAM Time to speed up the CPU. Take this in three steps, gradually getting to our goal of 400MHz FSB. First, we'll try 350MHz, then 375, then 400. First, loading Profile 1 and then disabling all the power savings features as well as Static Read Control. Save and exit, and re-enter the BIOS. Set the system to Manual Stockspeed, and lets set the ram up to be forgiving so that if you encounter problems it should not be ram related. Set the DRAM Frequency to DDR2-800, timings at 2T, 5-5-5-15-rest auto (except static read control), Vdimm at 1.8V. Save and exit, booting to memtest and verify that the bandwidth matches the previous test done earlier at this setting -- another good reson to keep records. Re-enter the BIOS and save to the Profile 2 -- this will be your overclocking start point. Back in the BIOS, with the Ratio at 9.5x, change the FSB Frequency to 350MHz. This should give you a final speed of 3.325GHz and the ram will be approximately 840MHz. Save and exit, boot to memtest, record the bandwidth and settings on the worksheet, and let her do a full pass and 20 passes test 5. Then to the OS for screenshots and benching. Rinse and repeat for 375 and 400 FSB. At 375MHz FSB you should get a final CPU speed of 3.56GHz, with ram at 900MHz. At 400MHz FSB you should get a final CPU speed of 3.8GHz, with ram at 960MHz. The ram should still have plenty of headroom, but at this point we may need to increase the Northbridge and/or CPU voltage. I think you will hit 350-375 without adjusting voltage, but 400 may be pushing it. I'll wait and see what happens first, before going there!

Indeed! Faster is good! Broke is not a problem! After reflashing, it's a good idea to load system defaults again, and retune it to disable the crap you don't need. Save a new Profile 1 too! With a new BIOS, everything starts anew. Right back to the beginning. It's basically a new mobo but just the software. It's like getting a new CPU or Ram, everything is completely different now. The good thing is you weren't too far along, it's easy and good practice to catch back up, and this BIOS seems better anyway.

Interesting, I am wondering what setting took the memory off stock speed of 800. No worries. No, the next step is to manually force the ram to 800. Leave the voltage as is, and increase it only if it still can't do 4-4-4-12 at DDR2-800. So, in the DRAM Frequency setting, change it to DDR2-800. Also, I'd like to see/know what options are available in the "FSB Strap to Northbridge Setting" other than Auto. Next step, if 4-4-4-12 is ok at 1.8volts, is to either see how much tighter you can make the 12 setting go, like 10 and 9. Or, put it back to 5-5-5-15 and increase the DRAM Frequency to see how fast they will go before adding voltage. Or, just real quick for fun, set the voltage to 2.1V and frequency way up to 1150MHz (or 1112MHz or whatever is available) and see if they will run at their rated speed, voltage and timings! Then reduce the voltage to see how little they can run at that speed before they start erroring. Lastly, it's be nice if they ran at rated speed and voltage with tighter timings, so rinse and repeat at 1150MHz gradually to try 4-5-5-15, then 4-5-4-15, then 4-4-4-12. Either way, you want to try all eventually. It's nice to know when the ram will need more volts, and how fast it can run with given timings, before you start setting the CPU faster which will change the final ram speed as well.

The mobo may have a button speaker on it already, or you can get one that plugs into the FP header. It's just a beep at boot, nothing you really need unless it won't boot and you want to hear the beep codes.

Your mobo doesn't match the manual I downloaded for a P5E, what is the exact model number? That EPS line is always a stretch with a bottom mounted PSU. It should run under the vid card, not on top -- there is a knotch under the card in the back near the I/O slot, the cable can run inder there, then up along to the connection. Pull the vid card first, lay the line down and plop the vid card back in, making sure the cable runs through the knotch. You will gain a bit of length this way, but it is still tight. Make sure that where the line comes out of the PSU, it isn't tangled or twisted into any other lines, and bend it sharply backwards to gain as much length as you can. My rant on this: There are extensions available, which would let you run the line out the back of the case, behind the mobo tray, and back into the connection from that hole (in the case) above the mobo. However, I don't like adding connections to a line like that, increases resistance. Yet a lot of people do this, and some pricier PSUs have a little longer line. This is an ongoing issue, and I think the PSU makers need to make this line longer because of the popularity of lower mounted PSU cases. I won't worry too much about the rest of the wires right now, but they can clean up real easy. I mentioned about a dry fitting in another thread here, where I typically install the mobo at least twice, even though I pre-setup the system open air. The first fitting just identifies problems, tight points, cable issues, etc. I pull the system, even gut the case, make the changes, pre-route wires, and put the system back together with near-finished cable management. If I do any cutting, I will definately gut the case, and this may mean one more fitting. With the first fitting, I don't worry about wire mess at all. To reiterate, only use one of the white orange ports, for the front panel eSATA cable. Use the regular red sata ports for the HD and optical. None of the raid features will be active unless you turn it on in the BIOS.

Yeah, I love the copper conduit! LOL. OK, so the orange and white are for external sata. Use one of these for that long red sata line coming from the front of the case. Lets you plug an external HD with eSATA to it and get speeds like it was in the system. These ports won't raid unless you set them to in the BIOS, otherwise they should be fine as single drives. Same for the red ports for that matter. The HD and optical can go in the red ones. I have 6 red SATA connectors, one orange and one white. The 6 red are: ICH10R Sata connectors (7pin SATA1-6 red) The other 2 are: Silicon Image Sata RAID connectors (7pin SATA_E1[Port0,orange], SATA1_E2[Port1, white] you indicated orange for the HDD, but I will not be using a raid. I was gonna just use the red ports (#1 for the hdd and #2 for the dvd and #3 for an eSATA connection coming from the front of the case) I got the impression that those other 2 were for raid setups and also used by the drive Xpert utility for backups and such, and all data on the drives could be erased if I used either the "EZ backup" utility or the "super speed" setup while connected to those ports.

I like this one better, much better: http://ncix.com/products/?sku=31649&vpn=CB%2D8M%2D8F&manufacture=Works Pricematched to $6.75: http://www.directcanada.com/products/?sku=25830EL6848&vpn=CB-8M-8F&manufacture=Works

CPU fan (4pin): this is a PWM controlled fan, better for moderating fan speed. Cha-Fan1 (3pin): Usually intake. This will report fan speed, should control speed as well but not always. Cha-Fan2 (3pin): Usually exhaust. This will report fan speed, should control speed as well but not always. Pwr-Fan

Or make the side panel fan an intake rather than exhaust. The cable bundle is in the drive bays.

Vacuum here, I have several. Only because I don't have an air compressor (and want the inline drier too!). I use the home vacuum for the big stuff, not getting too close to any components. It is the strongest sucker we have, so it also works well to suck the dust and debris away when held close to the area you spray with canned air or compressor. Keeps the clouds of dust from settling on everything in the room too! I use a lot of canned air, but a very nice brush I got with a tapered end works wonders at saving on the air bill. Keep the vacumm close when brushing out dust, works like a charm. I have a small rechargeable that I can take with me on calls, and because it is not plugged into anything, it has a much lower static risk. Then I have another small portable that plugs into the wall. It has great sucking power, will not run out of battery, and a cheapo hose instead of just a knozzle on the end. It's a Shark Turbo Hand Vac, sold at Canadian Tire for less than $20 on sale. It works great in the shop as well as out on calls. Using it mostly like the home vac when it isn't available. I'd like to get a decent shop vac, that blows as well as sucks. I'd use that instead of an air compressor, and only use the thing on computers to keep it from getting dirty. I've hear of people using leaf blowers, just be careful as they are huge power and could blow a card out of a slot.

Generally, no. Great comment on the antistat bags, never use them with components on top. Put components in them only when storing. I like to use the larger Asus mobo bags as dust covers, they seem non metalic, rubbery and flexible. They sometimes get knocked astray, and I can see this may be a not good thing! My workbench is wood, and has a rubber yoga mat on it. I used to use a wrist strap, but not these days and just make sure I ground myself before touching RAM or a CPU (I have an old PSU on my bench, plugged into a soocket for the ground, but nothing connected to it, I have my wrist strap attached to that, but just touch it with a finger). Most RAM these days have heatspeaders on them. Originally, it was to help dissapate heat on hot running fast DDR ram. These days, they put them on ram that will never get hot, no matter how fast they are run. Some ram still gets hot though. A better fuction for the heatspreaders IMHO is to protect the chips underneath, allowing safe and easy handling. Even so, I often handle ram by the edges of the PCB, so that I don't get fingerprints on the nice shiny heatspreaders. My work area is in a basement, and have no static issues that one would get in some homes, like in the winter. I have a bunch of rubber mats to place parts on, one is an old mousepad backing with the pad ripped off (solid rubber 1/4" thick), and a bunch of foam stuff I get by the package at a dollar store. Cardboard or wood will do fine in this respect too. I handle things as little as possible, and never walk around wqith anything in my hands. If I need to move something closer to where I need it, I carry it on top of a rubber mat or cardboard. I would like a rubber floormat, to soften the feet. I've not yet ruined anything, knock on wood. I think it is pretty safe to work and handle parts, as long as you do not have static in your home, and are careful to ground yourself, and handle everything by the edges. However, wearing a wrist strap is certainly safer, and they are cheap enough to buy. I do have two of them, I just don't use them at home much.

Woot! It's in thecase now? Letsee some piccies!

Absolutely, you have to be careful. The main reason it is done this way is to verify everything works before putting it in a case, or otherwise you are just pulling things out again. I must mention, that personally when I finally do assemble in a case, I invariably pull it at least once. The first try is just a dry fit to discover issues and problems as well as plan cable routing. Once I have a list of stuff to do, I pull the system, make the changes in the case, pre-route any cables that may go underneath the mobo (not reccomended), and then put it all back together. Grounding is fine, as it gets a ground from the PSU. A more dangerous issue is a short when in the case, like a mobo standoff that is in a spot where it shouldn't be, and shorts out on the bottom of the mobo.

LOL. I know what you mean... But actually, an open air setup like this provides NO passing airflow, and the system will actually run hotter than when in a case. Especially the NorthBridge. Many people rig a fan up, pointing to the NB area. Nothing to worry about unless you plan to run it like this for extended periods of time, or do a lot of overclocking with it like this. Besides, it takes up a lot of deskspace and is impossible to move!

Awesome! Just like the pros! 36-37 is fine! Have a look here for what these guys got with an i7 920 quad and stock cooler: http://www.pcper.com/article.php?aid=687&type=expert&pid=5 38 - 41 idle, 61 - 68 load. My reference to 50C is at idle, you are safe to hit 70C or more under load. However, it shouldn't get that hot even with a stock cooler, unless it is overclocked.

The P5K worksheet is the closest match to your P5E BIOS. A couple of minor differences is all.

First, before I forget, it is the "DRAM Static Read Control" setting that MUST be disabled as soon as we move the FSB speed above stock 333MHz! While it may not affect you, I think it will as it had severe limitations on two boards I worked with.

Lawls! Actually, you could possibly run the pc2700 at pc3200 speed, but only if it is capable of it and you'd have to manually set the speed in the BIOS, and test it with memtest to be sure it is stable, then again in the OS with Orthos or Prime95. Have a look at the @Falconise - Overclocking advice thread for info on how to test the ram. http://www.dangerdogz.com/forums/index.php/topic,7236.0.html You will have to test the 256mb stick first by itself. If it passes, then add the 1gb stick in the first slot and move the 256mb stick into the second slot. Ram is almost always capable of running one speed grade higher than it's rated speed. They do this because they have to build in some overhead into it, so that it will run in just about any system. Most PC2700 ram I have encountered has easily run at PC3200 DDR400 speed, and sometimes even faster than a few PC3200 sticks have been able to do. There was some good stuff back in those days, that was sold as slower ram. If you run into any problems, I would have to know the mobo and cpu make and model to look into it. Also... Are you certain the 1gb stick stick is running at DDR400 pc3200? Any reason why you'd not run the 512mb stick with the 1gb stick? It's just that if the 256mb stick cannot handle DDR400, then perhaps the 512mb stick will. I didn't get that? You mean ?It must be a coincidence, but that's what I think too. Weird stuff! (but don't quote me on that.) B

The case would come separately if it would not fit in one box with the rest of the order. Indeed, it is Purolator that wasted resourses by delivering twice, I am sure the pickup would have been at the same time but perhaps they were separated due to the size of the package. AVG 8.5 is out, and so far no problems here. Spyware Terminator is another great free package for surfing safe, just be sure to disable the AV component if you are already running AVG. Another decent one is SuperAntiSpyware.

Oh yeah baby! Nice stuff, ram speed will not be a problem.

Tighten and Tune the Ram If all went well with the manual stock settings, lets try and tune the ram. I really need to know what the timings were on auto to know what to set here, but I can edit it later. First thing I like to do is take the ram voltage off auto and set it to 1.8 volts (this should be the lowest setting). Then, leaving everything else the same I'd do a quick check in Memtest, one full pass and 20 passes test 5. If all is well, then... DRAM Frequency - DDR2-800 (we'll increase this later) DRAM Command Rate - 2T DRAM Timing Control - Manual 4 4 4 12 the rest auto Back into memtest, how do you like the boost in bandwidth? Should be pretty good, and hopefully still no errors. If we get errors, just increase the ram voltage 1 tick at a time till it goes away. Should only need a couple ticks, but this is valuable info, as we now know that we'll need to increase voltage if we want the ram to go even faster. That kit should be rated for 2.1 volts, but only really needed at higher speeds. Next, I would change the DRAM Command Rate to 1T. This should provide a huge boost in performance, but there is also a chance it can't do it and fail to boot. Increase the voltage some more and see if that helps. If it boots, woot! You can try even tighter, and see if there is any more bandwidth, 4-4-4-9 is often possible at DDR2-800. Otherwise, take 4-4-4-12 and 1T to the OS and bench it, see how much boost you got, and still running stock speed, with the ram running slower than your original 1066MHz. Take a cpuz and memset screen, see if those auto settings changed when you tightened the timings... they often do! You can use these new numbers as a starting point for when and if you take some of the other timings off auto. Overclocking is a lot about experimentation, trial and error, a process of elimination, and denial and error! It's very rewarding once you hit a milestone and/or start to understand it better.