Rattler

The images I post show the same way, depending on link style - inline, display, or thumbnail. Ex.: [attachthumb=1]

You can link inline images straight from your own PC, Carl. They'll be uploaded to our server and be hosted from there. I never use Photobucket anymore, unless it needs to go to another server like UbiZoo or Warbirds of Prey.

I love the paints - I use rubbing alcohol as thinner, and they spray very well. I use around 25 psi, and have my double action needle set to deliver just a touch of paint flow on pressing down, and then draw the trigger back to full flow. The nice thing is that the Tamiya acrylic thins very well, and cleans up with water (the paint pots.) I only clean the brush with alcohol.

Airbrush is a Badger Anthem 150, and Tamiya acrylics.

They are amazingly tough - some of the details needed ALOT of decal solvent, but none of them tore at all. They went on really smoothly. [attachthumb=1] [attachthumb=2] [attachthumb=3]

Thanks, Knight. It's a 2005 offering, molded in Japan. It had quite nicely finished sprues with little flash. They seem to have been getting much better than when I was younger. I hate the boxes though: they only open on the end.....can't store the assemblies in the box nicely that way!

Ok, final minor decals placed, and another coat of Future Wax. Next, the landing gear, prop, exhaust, and canopy. Just about done! [attachimg=1]

Congratulations to the both of you!

Main national markings applied - lots of decal solvent required!!! This is a 43 sqn aircraft stationed in Klagenfurt Austria, June 1945, thus the higher visibilty markings (outlining.) [attach=1] BTW - it's a second "snow day" in a row, so I'm at home working on the model. I'll be flying later this afternoon - yippee!

"Sometimes in warfare, stupidity has an inertia all of its own."

Anyone else with Enforcer's image loading issues?

After the Future Wax job.... [attachthumb=1] [attachthumb=2] It'll get a matte finish spray after the decals.....

Here's my latest work - finally got my airbrush to cooperate well. The beginnings... [attachthumb=1] [attachthumb=2] [attachthumb=3] Finished paint job...on to the Future Floor Wax.... [attachthumb=4] Yes, that's my tail gunner, Daisy, inspecting the finish... [attachthumb=5]

Well, at least you sorted it out, mate! I'm glad now that I haven't bothered to program my X45.....just assigned the basics.

Try this, mate: AMIBIOS Beep Codes Except for beep code #8, these codes are always fatal. · 1 beep Refresh failure · 2 beeps Parity error · 3 beeps Base 64K memory failure · 4 beeps Timer not operational · 5 beeps Processor error · 6 beeps 8042 - gate A20 failure · 7 beeps Processor exception interrupt error · 8 beeps Display memory read/write failure · 9 beeps ROM checksum error · 10 beeps CMOS shutdown register read/write error · 11 beeps Cache memory bad · For 1 beep, 2 beeps, or 3 beeps try reseating the memory first. If the error still occurs, replace the memory with known good chips. · For 4 beeps, 5 beeps, 7 beeps, or 10 beeps the system board must be sent in for repair. · For 6 beeps try reseating the keyboard controller chip. If the error still occurs, replace the keyboard chip. If the error persists, check parts of the system relating to the keyboard, e.g. try another keyboard, check to see if the system has a keyboard fuse. · 8 beeps indicate a memory error on the video adapter. Replace the video card or the memory on the video card. · 9 beeps indicate faulty BIOS chip(s). It is not likely that this error can be corrected by reseating the chips. Consult the motherboard supplier or an AMI product distributor for replacement part(s). · If no beeps are heard and no display is on the screen, The first thing to check is the power supply. Connect an LED to the POWER LED connection on the motherboard. If this LED lights and the drive(s) spin up then the power supply will usually be good. · Next, inspect the motherboard for loose components. A loose or missing CPU, BIOS chip, Crystal Oscillator, or Chipset chip will cause the motherboard not to function. · Next, eliminate the possibility of interference by a bad or improperly set up I/O card by removing all card except the video adapter. The system should at least power up and wait for a drive time-out. Insert the cards back into the system one at a time until the problem happens again. When the system does nothing, the problem will be with the last expansion card that was put in. · If the above suggestions fail to cause any change in the disfunction of the system, the motherboard must be returned for repair.

Might it just be an on-board battery failure? I'd check that first.

Awesome, dude. Nice of your mom to put that together for you two. Good thing Madzia's pretty - you're one ugly mug, dude!! (just kiddin' ya)

Thanks, Dave. I've been in contact with my brother, often a couple of times a week. Last call, he said he was bored! Thank God! He is not in the same situation as the PPCLI troops in the reconstruction teams - he's posted to a combat battlegroup, which will be involved in taking the fight to the Taliban. It's actually less dangerous than patrolling around when you don't know who/where the enemy is in the towns and cities, waiting to drive over a IED. He has his trusty GPMG, and as a medic, he's last in to the area, with one of the best SSM's in the business, Tony Batty. Thanks for the thoughts, Dave.

We heard it for the last 25 games while we were still in the hunt. Screw the Flames - Go San Jose!!!!!

Hey, doesn't that bouncy-ball have 3 horns???.........

Salute, mate, and good luck. I'm sure that the pencil pushers will pull through in the end ad all will go smoothly. God bless!

Yeah, I know - that's why the Exige's and M250's are so nice even with just a Toyota 1.8L engine. It'll be a heavily modified car; wider, etc., but it's amazing how light they can make an engine these days. They're expecting 0-60 of 2.5s - I don't know what they expect for handling, but I expect that you won't feel the road as well as in an Elise or Exige....