Gettin Rudder Peddles

[Tonar]

I got one ! Still does not work with that either.

[Tonar]

OK, I got the PEDALS to work, but now my X-52 will not move the control surfaces!! the TOE brakes are the roll and pitch now. I guess I need more forums reading. Thanks Roger.

Seems like its always something :?

[BadAim]

Unfortunately you are going to have to re-map your stick (unless anyone knpws a way around this issue). The Ch pedals for some reason always show up first on the windows joystick list, so they also show up first in the game. Your x52 will now show up as "joystick ID2". If you dont have it already,go get IL2 Sticks off airwarfare, it will make the sensitivity adjustments easy (you will kiss yourself for it). Welcome to the wonderfull world of rudder pedals!!!!!!

[BadAim]

Pooka, if you get rudder pedals that are specifically designed to work like real rudder pedals (like the CH ones are), your bad ankle may not be as much of a problem as you think! To operate the rudder you push the whole pedal with your heel so that your using you leg not your ankle, its the brakes that you will have trouble with because you push down with your toes (like a gas pedal). The even better news is that in IL2-PF you don't have real differential braking any way so just map the brakes to your good foot and fly away !!!!!!!!

[Tonar]

Your x52 will now show up as "joystick ID2".

Yes when I go into the inputs and select the control surface I want to map, it detects me moving the stick and says eg: x axis ID2. but when I get back to the tuning page, the stick still will not move the cursor, only the rudder pedals do that. am I still missing something?

[Rattler]

so I can't spell, so what?

S'ok. You ought to see the things I read at school sometime by 15-18 yr old students! You'd think they're completely illiterate (they might use the term illegitimate, and think it was correctly used; you get the picture.) I'll stop correcting now: sorry, it's in my nature as a teacher.

[BadAim]

No, your not missing a thing. The tuning page only works of the first controller, which will always be the pedals (I think this is a limitation of the old IL2 engine [like no differential braking]). Trust me on the IL2 Sticks thing you'll find it on airwarfare under essentials, it will give you a nice slider interface just like the IL2 ingame tuning and it will even tell you what each axis is controlling. The only disadvantage is you have to shut down the game, but it beats working directly with the config. file (like the old days). One other thing is you can only map the brakes to one pedal.

[Tonar]

Sweet, thanks. After reading a shit load I am begining to understand what is going on. Thanks guys for the pointers. I will get on to the next step tomorrow. Must sleep now.

Again YOU GUYS ROCK!!! :hello1: :hello1: :hello1: :hello1:

[delta7]

as badaim ssaid - you are doing nothing wrong - your pedals are now controller 1 and your joystick controller 2

go to controls section in the game and reassign commands in hotas section at the bottom to get everything working then use il2 sticks to set up sensitivity

the links are

http://www.airwarfare.com/tech/sticks.htm to set up your controllers

http://www.airwarfare.com/Sims/FB/fb_es ... es.htm#087 for seting up

goood luck

[B16Enk]

One other thing is you can only map the brakes to one pedal.

Unless you think laterally:

In hotas section click on the brake bit and depress, say, the right toe brake.

In the CH manager (sorry this does not apply to game port versions unless you use the legacy DOS application from CH) map 'B' to the left toe brake assuming 'B' is still mapped in the controls section.

This is how I have my brakes set up on my pedals.

There are profiles that will emulate differential braking for IL2 too.

[BadAim]

One other thing is you can only map the brakes to one pedal.

Unless you think laterally:

In hotas section click on the brake bit and depress, say, the right toe brake.

In the CH manager (sorry this does not apply to game port versions unless you use the legacy DOS application from CH) map 'B' to the left toe brake assuming 'B' is still mapped in the controls section.

This is how I have my brakes set up on my pedals.

There are profiles that will emulate differential braking for IL2 too.

Ach, so freakin' simple!!!! Tell us; do, about these profiles please!

[Tonar]

Alright, I fiddled with this a little this morning and something didn't happen like I thought. I don't see what the difference is between the IL2 Stick program and the tuning page in game? I was expecting it to show me the ID1 "&" ID2 info? I am only able to mess with 1 Input. Is this correct? I am under the assumption that I need to tell the unwanted rudder X & Y axis to be 0 so the stick will control the pitch and roll not the toe brakes? sorry if I am asking any dumb questions, but I am Dumb sometimes. :wink:

Thanks

[delta7]

il sticks is the same as the control section in the game - it just makes it easier to adjust- both write to your config file

when you use il2 sticks you are editing one profile , which contains all controllers.

when you click on an axis e.g. roll Il2 sticks will display the stick id and the axis you are editing - your peddels will be id 0 and your joystick id 1 - see section below for all controler ids and axis

the other way is to edit the config file manually - open main folder - right click conf file - edit

FROM TULLYS INSTRUCTIONS

Before commencing any edits, make a backup of the conf.ini file by making a copy and renaming it conf.bak. This will make it easier to fix any catastrophic errors we may make.

Once you've backed up the existing conf.ini file, open it using notepad and scroll down to the section that looks like this:

[rts_joystick]

X=0 1 4 9 16 25 36 49 64 81 100 0

Y=0 1 4 9 16 25 36 49 64 81 100 0

Z=0 10 20 30 40 50 60 70 80 90 100

RZ=0 10 20 30 40 50 60 70 80 90 100 0

FF=0

U=0 10 20 30 40 50 60 70 80 90 100 0

V=0 10 20 30 40 50 60 70 80 90 100 0

1X=0 13 21 28 39 53 65 77 88 96 100 0

1Y=0 22 28 37 45 54 65 77 88 97 100 0

1RX=0 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 0

1RZ=0 35 41 48 56 67 76 82 89 95 100 0

1U=0 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 0

1V=0 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 0

1Z=0 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 0

1X1=0 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 0

1Y1=0 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 0

1RX1=0 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 0

1RZ1=0 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 0

1U1=0 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 0

1V1=0 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 0

Now this looks very daunting at first, but don't be disheartened. Each line corresponds to one controller axis and six of the first seven lines don't even apply unless you're flying an early patch version (pre v1.04) of the original IL2 Sturmovik game.

The line FF=0 is the Force Feedback toggle. If you're using a force feedback joystick and have forces switched on it will be set FF=1.

The lines we're interested in start with the line beginning "1X=.....". The lines beginning 1X, 1Y, 1RX, 1RZ, 1U, 1V & 1Z correspond to the Windows ID#1 controller (there may be more or less in your file, depending on the number of axes present on your controllers). The lines corresponding to the ID#2 controller begin 1X1, 1Y1, 1RX1, 1RZ1 etc. If you have more controllers plugged in you will also have 1X2, 1Y2, 1RX2, 1RZ2 etc for Windows ID#3 and so forth. Though the author has never tested, it is believed that the IL2 series supports up to four controllers.

After the axis designation tag at the start of each line there are twelve numbers. The numbers correspond to the slider control in the Hardware Setup / Input screen in the game, though that screen only has sliders for the controller showing in Windows as ID#1.

The first number in each line corresponds to the deadband setting for that axis, the last number is the filtering setting and the ten numbers in between correspond to the ten sensitivity sliders found in the game's joystick setup screen. In order to set up your primary flight controller with the same sensitivity as you had before installing your second controller, you'll need to identify which line correspond to the axes of your second controller. When you assigned axes in the game controls screen you made notes of the axis designations. If you didn't, start the game now and write them down. The designations used there usually correspond as shown in the following table:

Controller Controls Screen conf.ini

ID#1 X-Axis 1X

ID#1 Y-Axis 1Y

ID#1 X-Axis Rotation 1RX

ID#1 Z-Axis Rotation 1RZ

ID#1 U-Slider 1U

ID#1 V-Slider 1V

ID#2 X-Axis ID2 1X1

ID#2 Y-Axis ID2 1Y1

ID#2 X-Axis Rotation ID2 1RX1

ID#2 Z-Axis Rotation ID2 1RZ1

ID#2 U-Slider ID2 1U1

ID#2 V-Slider ID2 1V1

here is my section

[rts_joystick]

X=0 1 4 9 16 25 36 49 64 81 100 0

Y=0 1 4 9 16 25 36 49 64 81 100 0

Z=0 5 10 15 25 35 50 66 80 90 100 0

RZ=0 10 20 30 40 50 60 70 80 90 100 0

FF=0

U=0 10 20 30 40 50 60 70 80 90 100 0

V=0 10 20 30 40 50 60 70 80 90 100 0

1X=0 10 20 30 40 50 60 70 80 90 95 0

1Y=0 10 20 30 40 50 60 70 80 90 95 0

1RZ=0 45 52 58 65 68 72 77 83 88 95 20

1U=0 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 0

1V=0 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 0

1X1=0 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 95 0

1Y1=0 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 95 0

1Z1=0 40 45 52 58 65 72 77 83 88 95 0

1RZ1=0 40 45 52 58 65 72 77 83 88 95 0

1X2=0 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 0

1Y2=0 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 0

1Z2=0 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 0

1RZ2=0 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 0

1RX=0 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 0

1U1=0 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 0

1RX1=0 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 0

1Z=0 35 40 48 54 60 66 72 80 87 95 30

1V1=0 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 0

1X3=0 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 0

1Y3=0 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 0

1Z3=0 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 0

1RZ3=0 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 0

good luck

[B16Enk]

CH-Hanger thread on dual toe-brakes Here.

Method posted by me above does result in one analogue and one digital brake, but since 4.05 I really can't tell the difference....

I'll quote from the CH-Hanger thread directly.

Assuming you already have a map started, to set toe brakes for PF:

1. Go to Control Manager, press the toe axis (brake) on one pedal. Arrow will point to that pedal.

-Ensure DirectX box is checked.

-In Axis Settings, DX Device, select None (scroll to bottom).

-Repeat these steps with the other brake axis.

2. Go to CM Editor to edit CMS Script File.

Input the following after script line and before endScript line:

%define leftBrake js3.a1

%define rightBrake js3.a2

%define brakeOut cms.a1

If ([leftBrake GT rightBrake]) then

brakeOut=leftBrake;

else

brakeOut=rightBrake;

endIf

Exit CM Editor.

3. Back in Control Manager, click the CMS Controls tab.

-In the Axes box, click A1.

-Ensure DirectX box is checked.

-In Axis Settings, DX Device, select CM Device 3 (assuming the pedals are CM Device 3).

-In Axis Settings, DX Axis, select Y Axis.

--If you've already assigned A1, select a different one that isn't assigned, and alter the script line "%define brakeOut cms.a1" - put in the one you're using, instead of a1.

Save your map and download it.

4. Start PF, go to Controls, HOTAS Control (at the bottom).

-Brake Axis: Press left brake. It should read Y-Axis ID3 (assuming pedals are device 3, again)

-Rudder Axis: Press right pedal. It should read Z-Axis ID3.

You're done.

If I'd have seen a post like this, assuming it's correct blink.gif , I'd have saved a lot of brain cells.

If anyone sees any errors, please correct.

Question: What's the difference between using the script on an axis in DirectX, as above, versus non-DirectX with the brake keystroke/NULL, as pictured by 531_Ghost? Any advantages?

Have a good one,

Papa_K

Differential braking discussion Here

[Tonar]

It works!!, Mostly. went home for lunch because I couldn't stop thinking about it. Set it up and VIOLA!!! everything moves what it is supposed too. Only issue I saw(there is always an issue). was that my rudder center was full left. Just need to cal it me's thinks. If not, then you will hear from me again.

Thank you o' great ones who know much more than I :notworthy: :notworthy:

[Quazi]

Well so far my fears about Ebay have come to play.

No luck on getting these used Pro Pedals to work. sure I read the Instructions, but I am have trouble getting the PC to see them. Granted I have only put in about 2 hours of fucking with it. So I will give it another day or 2.

I know better :x

My Girl always says "YOU GET WHAT YOU PAY FOR" :roll:

Shit VT. I hate to hear it. To date I have made well over 40 purchases for some very expensive computer components over the last couple years and have never had a problem with any of them. Video cards, cpus, Audigy 2's, even my first entry level water cooling Kingwin setup. Really sucks you are having issues. Do what Waldo Pepper suggests and check you bios to see if the game port is enabled. I always disable mine and any other port I don't plan on using. I do hope you get those pedals squared away m8. If I knew I could use a set and not cause me any more back issues than I already have, I would purchase a set in a sec.

As far as your eBay purchase goes? Does the person have a good feedback? If so, they may refund your $$$ in order to head off a negative feedback that they may think you will give them if they don't. Of course if the auction said no kind of warranty, then you may be sol. Although I have heard of eBayers doing the right thing. My criteria for doing business with another eBayer when making purchases is to preferrably purchase from someone with a 100% feedback rating. Not that anything less than 100% ond above 97% are any worse than the other, but you can rest assured they have worked hard at keeping a perfect feedback rating and will do what it takes to keep it that way. And if I am dealing with someone with less than a 100% feedback rating, even if it is a 98% or higher, I always read the negative feedbacks because there is no doubt that people can be real pricks to deal with at times and this person may have had a couple of these in the past. You can tell once you read the negative feedback that was left. And last but not least, I prefer someone with more than 30 transactions. This kinda sets up a track record for them.

Just wanted to share the secrets to my sucess in purchasing from eBay sellers. Myself? At this time I have had 64 transactions and have a 100% feedback rating, if anyone was curious.

EDIT: We must have posted one right after another, HEHE. I am happy for you sir! ~S~

[Tonar]

Thanks Quazi,

I'm square now. I also have 100% feedback. I am always sceptical though and I don't have much pacience with PC's. I realized right off the bat that I should not jump to conclusions when it comes to PC hardware, it is usually a case of MFU (Mike Fucked Up).

But I am ready to ROCK now!!!!

Come on thursday!!!!!!!! :twisted: