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Scale model advice please


Cold_Gambler

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I'm hoping that some of you with a little more experience can help me out with the last few touches on a Revell 1/72 Spit Mk V I'm finishing off (as practice for a 1/24 Spit Mk 1a).

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I'm going to tone the "chipping weathering" and I wish I'd bought some spray paint (I sprayed the bottom and it looks nice) rather than brushed the camo, but overall I'm fairly content with the result.

Here are my questions:

1) what do you use to mask the canopy for painting? I tried masking tape (general painter's tape) and then silver duct tape, but in both cases I could see some "seepage" beneath the tape and quickly put the canopy under water to remove the paint and start over.

2) it is nearly impossible to see inside the cockpit with the canopy on, so given the time I put in to detail the cockpit I'm considering cutting the canopy and having it in the open (slid back) position. Is this advisable? and how should I go about doing it?

3) What is the best way to apply the decals? I have some matte spray which I applied to tone down the glossiness of the green camo...

4) What should I use to make the radio aerial line from the post (yet to be glued just behind the 'pit) and the tail? really thin thread?

Other observations about this model, in case anyone is considering buying it:

1- If you look at the last picture you'll notice that there are no holes for the Hispanos (even though it is supposed to be a Vb). For some reason they put in two holes in each wing for the outboard .303s but neglected the cannons?!? Rather than try to make holes and botch up the wings, I am simply going to make this as a Mark Va (8 MGs).

2- there should be a bar between the back of the seat and the fuselage (over the radio compartment)... I'm not going to try to correct this at this stage).

3- while finish was OK, the two halves of the fuselage didn't marry very well... and I wasn't arsed to sand and fill to correct for this (I kind of regret that.

Overall a fun build though... looking forward to finishing it off.

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You could always try and paint the ejection chutes for the 20mm, if you can locate them correctly. Been a couple of decades since I did any of this, but I always limited the amount of detail i put in a cockpit of this scale due to size. The plastic may be a bit thick to try and cut neatly.

I never spray painted my planes, mainly due to the fact that the spray borders, though it may look nice, are totally out of scale. If you look at most pix of planes taken at a distance that would approximate this scale, the demarcation lines of the camo look solid. It only gets a bit more realistic to spray them at 1/32 scale or above methinks, although it does look good.

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CG,

Here's my $0.02...

1) For the cockpit masking, you can go the masking tape or post-it note route. Or if you can get a hold of it, this is what I used, PARAFILM M - http://www.clubhyper.com/reference/usin ... lmda_1.htm

If you're using enamel paints, then they have a reputation of seeping under masks. I only use Acrylic paints, as they don't do this.

As for detailing the cockpit, forget it! It's only 1/72 scale and when the canopy is on you can't see much inside.

2) For decaling, I followed Brett Green (off Hyperscale.com) advice of this technique...

a) Spray entire model with GLOSS varnish.

B) Then get some thinned down dark brown/black and paint all the panel lines. Don't forget to thin it down even further when doing underside, as it's usually a lighter colour.

c) Get hold of some MICROSET - http://www.chimneyvilledecals.com/mideseso1.html to brush onto area where decal goes. Dunk the decal for only 5 seconds then take it out of water and let it soak out of the water. Then place decal on A/C

d) Once all decals are dry, get some MICROSOL - http://www.chimneyvilledecals.com/mideseso.html and brush over briefly every decal, wait till every decal has dried, then repeat process. I did at least about 10 coats. It sort of melts the decal so it conforms to the model and the rivets can come through and it looks like a real paint job and not some ugly stickers.

e) When done, do your paint chips with a silver pencil then spray entire model with MATT varnish.

I haven't tried making the aerials.

GK

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Thank you!

I was wondering why I didn't used to have any problem masking when I used Testor's... but since I'm now using Tamyia I think that must be the problem.

Thanks also for your detailed descri[tion of decalling... it's always been my bane- getting them on at the right spot, not ripping and not "tenting" over features of the model...

Cheers mates,

Angus

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greyknight has covered it -

I would not bother witrh canopy - you will more than likely crack it

some slight alterations or alternatives

future furniture polish is your best friend - apply to canopy and then you mask using masking tape - use good quality like tamiya its worth it - if any paint seeps the future protects the perspex so you can remove paint with thinner without effecting the canopy

http://www.ipmsstockholm.org/magazine/2 ... nopies.htm

http://www.swannysmodels.com/Tools.html

I used a 0.5mm lead pencil to highlight my panel lines

http://www.ipmsstockholm.org/magazine/2 ... _lines.htm

then I put future all over to give a matt gloss and then apply decals they set fine with this

then apply final weathering e.g exhaust smoke then

finalise with a matt or silk varnish

good luck

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Good advice from Delta and GreyKnight.

You can also use clear Scotch-type tape to mask, but it can leave alot of residue if you're not careful - don't leave it on long!

I use Tamiya Acrylics for paint, spray gloss overall, do the decals, then overall matte finish.

There are lots of online sources available as well.

Try largescalemodels website for your 1/24 Spit - they may even have done it already....

http://www.largescaleplanes.com/

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