Jump to content

OK Hardware modder's


T_O_A_D

Recommended Posts

I'm fixing to take an old CH Combat stick handle and put it on one of my old Microsoft FFB sticks, it's not going to be a huge challenge, since I can get ther CH stick off and feed it through the FFB handle, then feed the wires back to the CH base.

I do need to locate at the very least a piece of 45 gauge multi strand 8 conductor micro cable.

The CH stick actually has 11 Conductor, but not all of them are in use.

I measure the stuff in it and it equals what this chart says it should.

http://www.csgnetwork.com/wireconversiontable.html

Not sure but an old keyboard cable may suffice, I need to locate one, to check.

If I can get it to work this way, it will suffice till I up the anti and progress to a more complicated version.

I considered an old X52 stick until I watch a Youtube of it being moddedand it is not nearly as comfortable as the CH stick is.

They both have the same amount of buttons not counting the mode switch.

And I can still keep the X52 as a button bay anyway.

Oh and this was all brought on due to Some Wankers playing with Jets in DCS. LOL

I'm hoping to use it even on Props, but if not I'll keep a un altered FFB sitting close by.

20210726_094754.jpg20210726_094007.jpg

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yep, I knew you had done that FT, One of the reasons I Posted I guess with that stick you was able to just wire the switches into the Microsoft board, since it doesn't have any extra hats?

What did you do about the grip hand photo sensor?

I read something about just connecting the too solder joints at the lights to make the board think your hand is there all the time.

Do you have any pictures of your Mod as it progressed?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1. DDz Quorum

I did rewire all, but indeed used the MS FFB electronics, as same number of buttons indeed.

And one extra axis, as the twist was removed.

The sensor I think I just taped up, so blinded it, so indeed to have it think the hand is always there...

Some pictures:

DSCF0170.jpg

 

There must be some magic going on, that I ductaped all over... can't remember what I did there!

IMG_0062.JPG

IMG_0063.JPG

Here's where the freed-up twist pot went: A brake lever!

SDC13006.JPG

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Oh my! I didn't expect for you to take it apart again for pictures, But it looks like it needed a bit of cleaning anyhow, so all is good. 😎

I see how you attached your handle now too, thanks for that.

Yep, I am working ideas out for the extra axis and buttons in my fatty tissue atm.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1. DDz Quorum
1 hour ago, T_O_A_D said:

Oh my! I didn't expect for you to take it apart again for pictures, But it looks like it needed a bit of cleaning anyhow, so all is good. 😎

I see how you attached your handle now too, thanks for that.

Yep, I am working ideas out for the extra axis and buttons in my fatty tissue atm.

These are just old pictures, mostly taken during the build (2007-ish) or later during some maintenance and cleaning :)

Taking the thing apart just for some pictures? No way! Too big a risk that I forgot how to put it back together in good working order!

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1. DDz Quorum

I grafted an X55 stick onto my MSFFB2 and it worked really well, there was space inside the MSFFB2 base to keep the X55 controlboard, so I was able to carve a hole and pass the USB cable for it out alongside the MSFFB2 USB cable.

There may be photos of how I did it on here somewhere!

On the shelf currently until I finish moving my office around:

IMG_0342.png

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Nice Roger!

I have mine working and flying as of today, I can probably put the CH control board in this case also.

I modded my oldest USB Microsoft stick, it developed a bad trigger switch in between the two Top Guns I won years ago.  I still have two perfectly working specimens though, for backups.

I had to remove part of the FFB shaft with my dremel and box knife, then bore the CH handle to 9/16" IE 14mm to fit the shaft of the FFB.

This is a confidence run, and if I do this again, I'll figure out a way to not ruin the shaft on the FFB again.

A system like these guys have made would be the way to go.

https://www.vrsimpits.com/

skip to 18:18 or so on this vid to see what I mean.

Just got to get a 3d printer or find some chap with one that want's the challenge.

I wander flee markets and consignment shops all the time, anytime I see one I grab it.

I have yet to pay more than 20 dollars for a Joystick since I got the X45 years ago ad CH pedals, I have two of those accumulated, one is shot and only for parts any more.

Plus several others, Game-port stuff, just for parts to scavenge from someday, looks like someday showed up LOL

I have the FFB stick handle board's hanging out ATM and will be ordering some buttons and switches to incorporate them through the case also.

Not a single store here local carries anything for this kind of stuff anymore. 😞

I have the CH base open and exposed yet, halfway thinking about just moving all the extra stuff to it though. Then put in a short cable and connectors externally, future proofing a cockpit layout down the road, not to mention gaining the use of the three pots in there.

20210729_120957.jpg20210729_121127.jpg20210729_175902.jpg20210729_175907.jpg

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

FT, Roger,

Did either of you ever identify the Yaw Potentiometer specs in the FFB stick?

I'm wanting to replace it and the three in the CH base to a threaded type, for ease of installation.

The CH are clearly marked MP-100A so without testing them I guessing 5-100 ohm

My Meter is at work and since I'm off due to injury I care not to go in there, and get grilled.

If neither know, I'll go by a cheap meter at harbor Freight or something less than 10 bucks.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

5 hours ago, B16Enk said:

I have 3D printer Todd.

What are you thinking of making?

 

In that video, I have a screen shot, see how they made some sort of adapter to to fit the FFB stick without cutting off the Yaw sensor block.

If you  watch it for that time stamp you will see what I mean.

If we could come up with the measurements, and import it into your CAD or what ever your printer uses.

We could upgrade all out FFB without destroying them.

Plus if we had multiple handles, we could leave the wires external to a Bodnar board or anther Base etc.

I was thinking old school and do a plaster cast of one my spare sticks and develop the adapter then make it also adapt to the threaded adapter for the Warthog, and other screw on sticks like you did.

without having to take the gimbal and stuff apart in the FFB

As for the Hall Sensors, I'm not informed enough on what or how on that yet.

If you can buy them and install them in direct replacement of the POT's I'm all ears, and willing to give it a go, once I know the skinny on them.

 

Desktop Screenshot 2021.07.31 - 16.12.41.19.png

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1. DDz Quorum

Pretty sure I have that drawn up in CAD already!

It is possible to print an adapter similar to that and have it transition to whatever diameter shaft is required, or even into the screw type connector the X55/56 and warthogs use.

I can even machine it out of delrin or aluminum with my CNC.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have the wood working tools.

But none of the rest, one thing that I've always thought the High Schools should do is open up their industrial art shops over the summer breaks, so we adults could come back and utilize them. We pay the taxes and would gladly pay a user fee I'm sure.

I miss those classes.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1. DDz Quorum
23 hours ago, Crash said:

Read this thread if you want to see what is possible if you have access to 3D printers and cnc machines

https://www.overclockers.co.uk/forums/threads/zee-sim-rig.18893357/

his seat tensioner/ G simulator is awesome :)

Awesome work that guy has done, he has one heck of a man cave!

My CNC is a much larger affair, will machine 1.4M x 400mm.
I never considered machining carbon fiber, that is giving me bank account draining ideas!
Must get back on my collective project, not having to print everything now makes it a more feasible proposition...

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1. DDz Quorum

Found my CAD drawings and models, originally I was going to make an X55 connector to slip over the original MSFFB2 stick stub.
I canned it because of the complexity getting the electrical contact pads implemented.

Any way, I can very easily modify the model to suite other applications very similar to the SopGrip idea.
I can also machine it out of Delrin, much faster than 3D printing too 😉

image.png

image.png

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

That looks great, leave it hollow down the middle for sticks that can easily be wired into the FFB boards, and a hole at 12OC to allow a way to move the wires out and into some other joystick base or board etc. Like the SOP Grip guys did, allowing the Saitek, Virpl and Warthog adapter to be used.

You could easily add a stem on top to for correct size fit for a stick to avoid what FT and I did to make our handles fit over the 14mm shaft of the FFB.

The CH is 12.55mm Diameter x 39.50 Long shaft with raised alignment guide 2.29mm raised x  2.24mm wide

But I won't be needing that no more, since I already bored my handle out to the 14mm

But the other version once I get my hands one one of those sticks and base with the paddle, and extra hats on them  I'll be after it for certain.

https://www.techinn.com/en/thrustmaster-f-a-18c-hornet-hotas-pc-add-on-joystick/137477011/p

So we have a bit of restless time on our hands, unless one of the other Blokes here is already at the point to mod one of those stick to a FFB without destroying anything.

I want those controls, and FFB or be dammed LOL

20210802_180913.jpg

20210802_180922.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

also more food for thought

 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/402653535197?_trkparms=aid%3D111001%26algo%3DREC.SEED%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20160811114145%26meid%3D75e562f063ef4760a2bf6ce1965950d6%26pid%3D100667%26rk%3D3%26rkt%3D8%26sd%3D233195609114%26itm%3D402653535197%26pmt%3D1%26noa%3D1%26pg%3D2334524%26brand%3DUnbranded&_trksid=p2334524.c100667.m2042

 

 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/114437780419?_trkparms=aid%3D1110006%26algo%3DHOMESPLICE.SIM%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D233199%26meid%3D88a6d076b77e490289b1bda224498248%26pid%3D101196%26rk%3D5%26rkt%3D8%26sd%3D402653535197%26itm%3D114437780419%26pmt%3D1%26noa%3D0%26pg%3D2047675%26algv%3DSimplAMLv5PairwiseWebWithBBEV2bAndUBSourceDemotionWithUltimatelyBoughtOfCoviewV1%26brand%3DUnbranded&_trksid=p2047675.c101196.m2219&amdata=cksum%3A11443778041988a6d076b77e490289b1bda224498248|enc%3AAQAGAAACQFYvT%2BqKazc4LrfxcTnKDMxplvWDJw271p6SH7sH9I7RMHzoj81E5sLOlcto%2F9toMP82bDqu4AsNmwoyNf7MjQkd8OMfxYnhOly2zazocz1sUNQ8QZsa3tCH0N9NWdFQmbAeqJkH%2BsyikwtbXuNF9omYriSbOoFN9aPBg8CgDOt5iB%2F09LFCFgqHj2O86kplJ7xg9ByGDxw6Pm%2BttMeue1PnZm2FsQFEWcpGJebc%2BULUdRQIq45RIDObL8V%2BjLQL0AYB%2BheWRW6otg0NUQ%2FfYE3OyuvOqna7%2F%2BFEp99Rj97Dii7noltWYDjimMB%2BBAYgmKlJcxP4JKbn7OCLf2TtwisujbFGoweFiocYCxArBI%2FpzSuvZy2YpQSiM46z8ewvNPbkWVDKdniNA3Uc2w1FZOqSC5%2FETmTk2ZI%2BwvzvDN5eIWzgMPDqr8GmPh%2FqE8EGOg3csvC9vDFJ%2FTlGkuQ36NgJTJSG51%2Bu6hZ9tdRk25EiQjzGGGhA3LdRlubHsUvCiJWif%2BFRoO3WYfydgMem4YnfsCLQoZhMqEmvmvCKkDYEENszlWoQUVnfQAuCZiu6pCe5oPXg63GGZRlEtso9iMv%2Bl4plFGpl7SsKfk7sK94PiVH6%2FI5xZO2QNutkMpHjeG4WhBRm8sVW82kRb4sU7IY7ZYrvDyz2jT5kiwuLohVVmB9w0EHuklenOEF6By6ojiBK3o698ScTILif7AQ3FGS%2BUm37gb4fvgTM1otYfIiGBdanxn%2FsrCUMDbTvLd%2FGsg%3D%3D|ampid%3APL_CLK|clp%3A2047675

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 4 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...

I've been super busy dealing with real life again, I'm pondering  hall sensors.

https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/tt-electronics-bi/6127V1A360L-5/2620658

I'm wondering about any of your thoughts on it, and if you think it might be a viable Pot for the three flight trims.

My concern is, that it says continuous, does that mean it never stops rotating, no hard stops built in?

Or this one is a 180 but it also says continuous.

https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/tt-electronics-bi/6127V1A180L-5/2620657

I'm going to be adding pots to a BU0836X Leo Bodnar board, I now have tow of them, for two separate projects.

Oh and do any of you use Joystick Gremlin?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...