Perfesser

change what is the question........ first foray into FMB

I wanted to add a few things to a mission Mad Trooper created so in my first foray into FMB I did so. Tried his first and it flew fine, I could select any plane. I added a few flights and on one plane I clicked the "player" tab. I can only fly the plane with "player" checked, I'm assigned that spot when the mission loads and cannot change. I want to fly others so I uncheck "player" on that particular plane. When I load the mission I can't select any plane. What have I done wrong?

Figures, oh well.

There was talk in another thread about the difficulty of keeping the ball centered without any sort of reference beyond the in-cockpit gauge. If there was some way of reading the game's output for the slip/skid (not my area of expertise) it would be fairly simple to make a remote gauge using an LED display or a bank of LED's. Hell, you could even rig the output to swivel your chair with an actuator with a little more work for that seat of the pants feel. Is it possible to read the games output? If so, I might see this as an interesting project to pursue.

Both submerged so they aren't using radar, only passive sonar, just listening, not pinging away for echoes. Even radar I think they used to just use briefly looking for aircraft as they surface. Maybe not any more. Any emission(sound or radio)

Just my failure to Read The F Manual. My first foray into building anything with LED's. Yes current overload, resistor seems have fixed it. In a couple of days I'll have access to a digital multimeter and get some proper readings on voltage and current.

I would call him Chaplin (Charlie) cause I haven't heard a word out of him yet. Buster (Keegan) .. same reason.

JU87 D5 running 4.09 mods. I set the Stuvi bomb sight and it salvos all the bombs. Is there a control I can't see to get a separate release for 2 drops?

Every time I alt tab out something goes wonky(TS mic hiss or Freetrack lockup) or the game crashes. If I use the windows key it almost always works fine. In your case I might try a system restore to a date before the problems surfaced but since my last suggestion caused you more problems I'll just

I used to have issues with choppiness (some process taking up CPU at the worst time) but I now go into task manager and set IL2FB.exe to "high" or "realtime" priority after the game starts. I set TS to "above normal". This has always made things better for me, however, a few Dogs tried that and their situation got worse. You could go through all processes to see if any others are at high priority. Ctrl+Alt+Del to bring up task manager, select task, right click, set priority, ignore warning. Kinda curious why TrackIR(with Freetrack) is always at lowest priority...... Something else I haven't done: A Guide to Optimizing IL-2 for Multi-Core CPUs. http://il2.netteq.com/guides/multicore/multicore.html

It was a sight to see, I think the old fairy tale "7 in one blow" would apply.......

One LED burned out last night. Apparently they can't handle the .2 volts over their 1.6v rating. (3 in series = 4.8v) USB ports have at least 5v, (huge warning in caps on the site, USB forces to 5v) you should put a resistor in series with the LED's. This would explain why the set of LED's was flashing and also why one burned out. RTFM: Had I bothered to look on the Freetrack site they have a handy-dandy setup calculator where you plug in your specs and it does all the calculations. My LED's are rated at 1.6v but they work fine (with a lot longer life) and still give a very good signal at 1.5v(tested with a battery). Plug the numbers in and a 10 ohm resistor is all that's needed. Also they must already be wide angle because they give a good signal even 90 degrees off the viewing angle without sanding them down flat. I might rough sand the tips to cut down the "flare" when angled directly at the camera.

I've based all my builds on commercially available gaming rigs. Alienware for the really hot stuff. Tom's Hardware has great packages, updated as hardware becomes available, no guesswork. Saved me $1000 on my last build. http://www.tomshardware.com/theme-reviews-build-your-own,156-1.html

Guy at the store had no clue why they flash, I suspect one of them is overly sensitive to the .2 overvolt and cuts in and out. So I bought a 6 more LED's, made a spotlight and still wasn't happy. Reflects off the hat, my nose, chin and earlobes are especially bad when you turn your head. I was pretty happy about using a USB port to power them ( i have a remotely powered USB hub, from 115 v, not connected to the computer at all). Although it does seem to power them fine off the ports in the G15 keyboard that give you a "low power" message when you try to plug any other device into it. Already had all the soldering stuff out so I took the 3 good LED's out of my original 6, ground the ends down as far as I dared and made em flat and then I mounted them on the hat. Just popped holes in the fabric(cardboard in the brim) and slid the leads through, soldered em on, then bent the leads to aim them. Sayal Electronics had some 1 inch adhesive velcro tabs, should hold the wires out of harms way. Hacked up another USB cable and powered it up. Works great all the time with a tiny exposure adjustment for ambient lighting. Bottom line. This works great with a few cautions. If your room has greatly variable light go with the LED's on the hat or headset. If you are in the basement then the reflectors probably work well enough. Measure your model dimensions and model position carefully and enter them.(under the model tab)

Got a problem here. I found a local supply and made an IR spotlight out of 6 LED's. 1.6v @ 50mA

Worked like a charm gec, good call. They are on.

In an environment where you have large variations in light levels through the day (sunny windows) I would suggest LED's as markers. Every time the light changes I'm adjusting the threshhold level. I suppose you could just have a day and night profile(just thought of that duh..) I still want to try making a spotlight of 9 or 12 IR led's and try that before I decide for sure. This camera has 6 but I suspect they may not turn on if the room is too brightly lit. I can't tell if they're on or not ................. any ideas? .... my NV binocs

It was happening when I had Freetrack shut off and it reverted to this when I spawned in SEOW........ YIKES!!!!!!! Managed to survive and after the match Jedito spent enough time to fix some settings I messed up. ~S~ Jediteo thanks very much, getting at least 20 fps now from 5 and the IR filter effortlessly removed from camera. A little tweaking and it really works well. If anyone is hesitant this camera makes the whole thing almost effortless. The whole thing cost about $35 Canadian. Couldn't have finished without the help of Jediteo though.

What the hell have I done now?? The game seems to default to "look back right" view sometimes. I have a bad feeling this is going to happen at the worst moment..............

Freetrack supposedly has a 4x frame multiplier (30x4=120), the program is telling me the output from the camera is inadequate (5 fps)

The camera recognizes the reflectors well enough, good solid signal to Free track, just have to play with the

I do believe it works This is just playing with camera settings, no filters. 1" foam balls covered with reflective tape, screwed on through the hat. Bob's your uncle

This technique is what got me to thinking about this in the first place, I stumbled on to the camera

EDIT: all info now in the first post. Found a webcam that might just work out of the box, delivered today. It already has 6 IR LED's mounted on it. I think all it will need is a visible light filter placed over the lens assuming it has the framerate needed. $25 CDN. KINAMAX Infrared NightVision / 6 LED / USB 2.0 / 1.3 MegaPixel / WebCam with Audio Microphone http://www.tigerdirect.ca/applications/searchtools/item-Details.asp?EdpNo=1567081&sku=M501-1160&srkey=KINAMAX%20Infrared%20NightVision You do need to remove the IR filter. Unscrew the camera lens, look at the back of the lens assembly for a red tint, that's it. With a knife I scraped off (no popping that sucker off) the glued on plastic washer that holds the IR filter in place(1/8" square glass), screw the lens back in. Fine threads, plastic, and it's the manual focus for the cam, use caution. Webcam (made in China) 1 inch dia. foam balls (made in the USA!! Floracraft, Ludington Mi) at a craft store, 16 for $4 (coated a few times with white glue(also made in USA) to stiffen em up) Reflective tape (made in Canada!) at auto supply store $7 Hat in stock (one of those high shapes that are fairly stiff, the ones you wouldn't wear out in public anyway, made in China) 3 screws